Cult Insider

EDITION 022 | AUGUST 2024

Wine Deconstructed: What’s Truly in Your Glass?

Written by - Cult Wines team

At its most fundamental state, wine is comprised entirely of grapes. If you leave a vat of grapes in a container over time, the naturally occurring yeasts from the grape skins will convert the fruit’s sugary juices into alcohol. This basic premise of winemaking dates back thousands of years.

However, contemporary winemaking often involves more than just grapes. While there is a growing market for ‘natural’ wines that adhere to traditional methods, most modern producers add a variety of ingredients to enhance flavours, create specific aromas, and build texture. Let’s delve into what might be swirling in your glass – and why.

Calcium Carbonate
Examples: Cool climate wines such as Riesling or Pinot Noir from Germany or Northern France.

Calcium carbonate is used to reduce the acidity of the finished wine, particularly when grapes have yet to ripen fully due to cooler climates. By lowering the acidity, it helps in making the wine more palatable and balanced. Historically, winemakers relied on blending different batches of wine to manage acidity levels.

Flavours
Examples: Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon aged in oak.

Traditionally, winemakers have relied on oak barrels to impart flavours of vanilla and subtle spices to their wine. However, since only some of the wine contacts the wood, many producers add oak chips, powders, or staves to ensure a more even distribution of these desirable flavours. This method is more cost-effective and time-efficient than ageing all wine in barrels.

Grape Juice Concentrate
Examples: Inexpensive supermarket wines, often red blends.

Grape juice concentrate can enhance the colour of red wines and add a bit of sugar to smooth out the mouthfeel. This concentrate is usually derived from Teinturier grapes, known for their deeply coloured juice. Historically, richer or late-harvest grape varieties were used to naturally enhance colour and sweetness.

Non-Vegan Material
Examples: Traditional wines such as Bordeaux and Burgundy.

Artisan winemakers who avoid adding enzymes might use non-vegan materials as fining agents and clarifiers. These can include egg whites, bentonite clay, and mammal proteins. These substances help clarify the wine and are filtered out before bottling, leaving no trace in the final product. Historically, animal-based fining agents were common due to the lack of alternative technologies.

Powdered Tannins
Examples: Red wines such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah.

Tannins naturally occur in grape skins and add complexity to wine. However, the winemaking process, including crushing, maturation, and environmental factors, can affect tannin levels. To achieve balance, powdered tannins might be added early in the winemaking process. Historically, extended maceration times or the use of older, more tannic grape varieties were used to achieve the desired tannin levels.

Potassium Sorbate and Potassium Metabisulfite
Examples: Wines meant for ageing, like fine reds and whites from Bordeaux and Burgundy.

These compounds are used to guard against bacteria and spoilage. Commonly used together, they help the yeast ferment efficiently and enhance the overall flavour. Potassium sorbate prevents yeast from continuing to ferment after bottling, while potassium metabisulfite protects the wine from oxidation and spoilage. Historically, higher alcohol content and strict hygiene practices were the primary methods to preserve wine.

Sulphur Dioxide
Examples: Nearly all commercial wines, especially those intended for ageing.

One of the most common additives in wine, sulphur dioxide (often referred to as ‘sulphites’), preserves the grapes and prevents oxidation during winemaking. This additive must be declared on the wine label if it exceeds 10mg per litre, as some individuals are sensitive to sulphites. Historically, sulphur candles were burned inside barrels to disinfect them, which inadvertently introduced sulphites into the wine.

Sugar
Examples: Sparkling wines like Champagne and low-alcohol wines from cooler regions.

Contrary to popular belief, sugar is not added to sweeten wine but to boost its alcohol content through a process called ‘chaptalization.’ This practice, which assists yeast during fermentation, is particularly useful in regions where grapes may not reach optimal ripeness. Historically, grape must (freshly crushed grape juice containing skins, seeds, and stems) was used to naturally increase sugar levels.

Water
Examples: High-alcohol wines from hot climates like some Australian Shiraz or Californian Zinfandel.

Water is sometimes added at the beginning of the winemaking process to adjust high alcohol levels and balance the wine. This practice helps in creating a more consistent and palatable product. Historically, blending high-alcohol wines with those from cooler vintages was a method used to manage alcohol levels.

Yeast
Examples: Champagne, other sparkling wines, and certain aromatic whites like Riesling.

Yeast is the key ingredient in winemaking, converting sugars into alcohol. Some producers use cultured yeasts to enhance specific flavour profiles. Additionally, yeast is involved in malolactic fermentation, a secondary process where harsh malic acids are converted into softer lactic acids, improving the wine's texture and stability. Historically, wild yeasts present in the winery environment were relied upon, which could result in inconsistent fermentation and flavours.

Understanding Modern Winemaking

Modern winemaking is a delicate balance of art and science. Modern winemaking is a delicate balance of art and science. Each additive and technique has a specific role: to adjust the acidity, enhance flavour, or ensure the wine's stability and longevity. By understanding these elements, wine enthusiasts can appreciate the complexity and craftsmanship that go into every bottle.

While modern winemaking embraces these advanced practices to refine and perfect wine, there is also a growing movement towards natural winemaking. Natural wines are made with minimal intervention, relying solely on the natural yeasts present in the grapes and eschewing additives and modern technology.

Modern Winemaking vs. Natural Winemaking

Modern Winemaking Practices:

• Consistency: Advanced techniques and additives allow for a more consistent product, ensuring each bottle tastes as intended.
• Stability: Additives like sulphur dioxide and potassium sorbate prevent spoilage and oxidation, enhancing the wine's shelf life.
• Control: Winemakers can fine-tune the wine’s flavour, acidity, and body to create a balanced product that meets market demands.

Possible Downsides:

• Artificial influence: Some purists argue that additives and interventions can mask the true character of the wine and its terroir.
• Allergies and sensitivities: Additives such as sulphites can cause reactions in sensitive individuals.

Natural Winemaking Practices:

• Authenticity: Natural wines reflect the true character of the grape and terroir, offering a unique and unadulterated expression of the vineyard.
• Fewer additives: Minimal intervention means fewer chemicals and additives, which can appeal to health-conscious consumers.

Possible Downsides:

• Inconsistency: The lack of control and reliance on natural processes can lead to batch variations and potential flaws in the wine.
• Stability issues: Natural wines may have a shorter shelf life and be more susceptible to spoilage without preservatives.

Both styles of winemaking have their place and appeal. Modern winemaking provides reliability and refinement, making high-quality wine accessible to a broader audience. Natural winemaking offers a return to tradition and purity, attracting those who appreciate unique and authentic expressions of wine.

Whether you prefer the precision of modern methods or the rustic charm of natural wines, each approach offers a distinct and enjoyable experience, showcasing the diverse world of wine.

News in brief

Champagne's Resilience Amid Climate Change

Champagne is adapting well to climate change, benefiting from warmer conditions that enhance grape ripeness without compromising quality. Tastings by Dom Pérignon and Ruinart reveal strategies like selective harvesting and new production techniques that maintain Champagne’s freshness and balance. Despite challenges like heatwaves and droughts, Champagne houses are confident in their ability to continue producing world-class sparkling wines, even in hotter years, by focusing on phenolic management and reduced dosage.

Emirates Launches Wine Courses for Cabin Crew

Emirates has introduced "L'art du vin" wine courses for its cabin crew, enhancing their ability to recommend wines and improve customer experience. The programme at Emirates Cabin Crew Training College in Dubai includes three proficiency levels, covering wine basics, regional characteristics, and pairing techniques. Over 1,000 crew members have completed the course, with plans to train 22,000 more by 2026. Certified wine ambassadors lead the courses and include classroom lessons, at-home study, and an app for personal tasting notes.

Italian Wine Industry Faces Structural Challenges

The Italian wine industry is grappling with deep-rooted issues, exemplified by financial troubles at major cooperatives Moncaro in Marche and Cantine Europa in Sicily. These difficulties, exacerbated by rising production costs and climate impacts, threaten the reputation and sustainability of renowned wines like Verdicchio and Grillo. Efforts to stabilize the situation, including judicial interventions and cooperative partnerships, are underway, but the sector remains vulnerable, requiring significant structural reforms.

Hermione Egerton-Smith, Senior Fine Wine Buyer - Cult Wines - Vieux Château Certan 2004

What we’re drinking

Vieux Château Certan 2004

Hermione Egerton-Smith, Senior Fine Wine Buyer - Cult Wines

I recently enjoyed a bottle of Vieux Château Certan 2004 with my aunt during a midweek meal, and it was the highlight of our evening.

Vieux Château Certan (VCC) is a historic estate in Pomerol, Bordeaux, managed by the Thienpont family since 1924. Known for its prime terroir and a reputation for producing wines of elegance and depth, VCC consistently delivers quality, even in cooler vintages like 2004.

At twenty years old, the wine showed well, with a deep garnet colour and a complex nose of black cherries, plums, cedar, and a hint of violet. The palate was medium to full-bodied, with a silky texture and well-integrated tannins. Its refreshing acidity balanced the rich fruit flavours, leading to a long, elegant finish with notes of spice and dark chocolate.

We paired it with duck breast, and the wine’s balance of fruit and earthiness complemented the dish perfectly. The 2004 VCC may not be as opulent as warmer vintages, but it offers a satisfying complexity and refinement.

Our fine wine feature

Assyrtiko: Greece’s Volcanic Treasure in a Glass

Written by - Jessie Wu, Client Account Manager - Cult Wines

Assyrtiko, regarded as Greece's most iconic wine grape variety, symbolises the country’s rich viticultural heritage. Indigenous to the volcanic island of Santorini in the Aegean Sea, Assyrtiko has earned international acclaim for producing a wide range of wines, from fresh, mineral-driven whites to complex, rich dessert wines such as Vinsanto.

This versatile grape has become synonymous with Santorini’s unique terroir, where it thrives under challenging conditions, producing wines that reflect the island's distinctive environment. As Assyrtiko's reputation grows, it continues to bring greater attention to the wines of Greece, establishing itself as a flagship for Greek viticulture.

Assyrtiko's roots run deep in the history of Greek viticulture, with cultivation on the island of Santorini dating back over 3,000 years. This ancient grape variety has played a vital role in the region's winemaking traditions, thriving in the island's challenging environment and contributing to Santorini's reputation as a hub of fine wine production. The volcanic soil and climate have shaped Assyrtiko into a grape of remarkable resilience and character, allowing it to remain unaltered over centuries.

Assyrtiko: Greece’s Volcanic Treasure in a Glass

Santorini's Unique Terroir and Viticulture

Santorini’s volcanic landscape provides an extraordinary environment for Assyrtiko to flourish, offering a terroir unlike any other in the world. The island’s soils, composed of volcanic ash, pumice, and lava, impart a distinct mineral complexity to the wines. This mineral backbone is one of Assyrtiko’s defining characteristics, giving the wines their famous crispness and a sense of place inextricably linked to Santorini’s volcanic origins.

The terroir not only influences the flavour profile of the wines but also contributes to the grape's resilience, as the volcanic soils have protected the vines from phylloxera, allowing them to remain ungrafted and often reach ages of 70 years or more.

The island’s extreme climate, characterised by hot, dry summers and strong winds, presents significant challenges for viticulture. Santorini is classified as a desert on the Köppen climate scale, receiving very little rainfall throughout the year. These harsh conditions have forced winegrowers to adapt their practices, leading to the development of the unique ‘Kouloura’ or basket training system. This traditional technique shields the grapes from the elements, concentrates the flavours in the fruit, and results in wines of remarkable intensity and complexity.

Winemaking and the Versatility of Assyrtiko

Assyrtiko’s versatility as a grape variety is evident in the wide range of wine styles it can produce. This adaptability is one of the reasons why Assyrtiko has gained such a strong following among winemakers and consumers alike.

On Santorini, winemakers have mastered the art of crafting both dry and sweet wines from Assyrtiko, each showcasing different facets of the grape’s character. One of the most renowned styles is Vinsanto, a sweet wine made from sun-dried Assyrtiko grapes. The grape’s natural susceptibility to oxidation is skilfully managed during the production of Vinsanto, resulting in rich, nutty wines full of dark fruit flavours, with notes of fig, coffee, kirsch, and chocolate.

In addition to its use in sweet wines, Assyrtiko is celebrated for its dry white wines, prized for their freshness, minerality, and high acidity. These wines often exhibit a bright yellow-gold colour and a complex aromatic profile that includes mineral notes, citrus blossom, pear, and apple. Some winemakers choose to ferment Assyrtiko in oak barrels, adding further depth and complexity, while others emphasize the grape’s natural purity using stainless steel or concrete tanks.

Regardless of the winemaking approach, Assyrtiko’s naturally high acidity ensures that the wines are well-structured and capable of ageing for many years, developing additional layers of flavour and complexity.

Assyrtiko’s distinct minerality and high acidity make it an excellent companion for a variety of dishes, particularly those rooted in Mediterranean and Greek cuisine. The crisp, fresh profile of a dry Assyrtiko pairs beautifully with seafood dishes, such as grilled octopus, lemon-drizzled calamari, or traditional Greek seafood pasta.

The wine’s vibrant acidity also complements richer dishes like moussaka or lamb souvlaki, cutting through the fat and enhancing the flavours. For those enjoying a glass of Vinsanto, the sweet, complex notes of the wine are best paired with desserts like baklava or dark chocolate, which harmonize with the wine’s rich, nutty undertones.

Wine Critics' Remarks on Assyrtiko

Assyrtiko has garnered high praise from wine critics worldwide, solidifying its status as a grape of exceptional quality and character. Yiannis Karakasis MW, in his book The Wines of Santorini, lauds Assyrtiko as the flagship of Greek wine, highlighting its "magnificent combination of ripeness and razor-sharp acidity."

Esteemed wine critic Jancis Robinson MW has also drawn attention to Assyrtiko’s remarkable ability to stand toe-to-toe with renowned white wines like Riesling and Chablis, noting that in blind tastings, it can be nearly impossible to distinguish a top Assyrtiko from these esteemed counterparts.

Critics have emphasized Assyrtiko’s unique expression of its volcanic terroir, with its intense minerality and vibrant acidity making it a favourite in fine dining establishments and among wine connoisseurs. The grape's ability to age gracefully, developing complex layers of flavour over time, further cements its place as a world-class variety deserving of its growing reputation.

Assyrtiko's Influence Beyond Santorini

While Santorini remains the heartland of Assyrtiko, the grape’s success has led to its cultivation in other regions of Greece and internationally. In recent years, Assyrtiko has been planted in several Greek regions outside Santorini, such as Drama in Greek Macedonia, where it has adapted well to different terroirs. These mainland Assyrtiko wines often retain the grape’s signature acidity and minerality but may display a slightly different flavour profile influenced by local climate and soil conditions.

Assyrtiko has also made its mark internationally, most notably in Australia’s Clare Valley. Jim Barry Wines was the first to introduce Assyrtiko to Australia, using cuttings from the Argyros Estate on Santorini. The grape has adapted well to the Australian climate, producing wines that maintain Assyrtiko’s hallmark freshness and minerality while reflecting the unique characteristics of the Clare Valley terroir.

This global expansion has led to comparisons between Assyrtiko and other prestigious white wine varieties, such as Riesling and Chardonnay. However, wine enthusiasts should be mindful that the best expressions of Assyrtiko often come from Santorini’s PDO wines, where the volcanic terroir is most pronounced.

Explore & travel

Korcula: A Wine Lover's Paradise

Co-written by - Alexa Atkinson, Cult Wines marketing team, and Gabrielle Bačić and Jennifer Kerum, Co-Founders of Korcula Wine Tours

Korčula, a stunning island in the Adriatic, is famed for its medieval architecture, pristine beaches, and rich cultural heritage. However, for those in the know, the island’s thriving wine tourism scene is a major draw. It’s more than just wine tastings—it's a journey into a way of life where winemaking is deeply rooted in local culture. The connection between the people and their vineyards runs deep, with a common saying that locals would sooner give up the shirt off their back than their vineyard. There’s even an unspoken rule: if a vineyard must be sold, it stays within the family or is passed to a close neighbour, ensuring that both the land and its legacy remain within the community.

My adventure began as soon as I stepped off the ferry from Dubrovnik to Korcula, where I was immediately drawn to a charming little wine shop. As a wine lover, I couldn't resist exploring, and it was here that I stumbled upon a unique bottle adorned with barnacles and shells—an amphora aged in the sea, unlike anything I'd seen before. Although I didn't get to dive for wine myself, submerging wine in the sea to age captivated me—yes, you read that correctly. As an advanced open-water diver, the idea of exploring an underwater winery feels like the perfect blend of my passions and something to look forward to on my next visit!

This initial introduction to Korcula's innovative winemaking methods was just the beginning. To truly understand the island's deep-rooted wine culture, I turned to the expertise of Gabrielle Bačić (Gabi) and Jennifer Kerum, the dynamic duo behind Korcula Wine Tours. The cool, steady temperature and the gentle rocking of the sea create ideal conditions for ageing wine, resulting in a flavour profile that can't be replicated on land. Several Korcula wineries have embraced this innovative method, and I couldn't resist bringing home an amphora of wine that had spent months under the sea.

My journey through Korcula's wine culture continued with Gabi and Jennifer, whose company has become a significant contributor to the island's economy and a magnet for wine enthusiasts worldwide. Gabi and Jennifer are not only tour guides but passionate ambassadors of Korcula's wine culture, dedicated to providing visitors with an authentic and memorable experience. They introduced me to Pošip, a grape variety unique to Croatia, originating in the heart of Korcula. This crisp, dry white wine with notes of melon and grapefruit quickly became a favourite, especially after I visited the Bire Vineyard, where I was introduced to their exquisite Plavac wine. It's a wine I now proudly serve at my dinner parties, knowing it carries the essence of Korcula.

Korcula's wine production dates back to when the Greeks and Illyrians first settled on the island. For generations, winemaking has been a family affair, with many still producing wine in their garages using traditional hand presses and small stainless steel tanks. This deep-rooted tradition persisted even during the Yugoslav era when winemaking was primarily limited to personal consumption or selling grapes to government-run cooperatives. However, in the last two decades, a new generation of winemakers have emerged, infusing their inherited knowledge with modern techniques to create exceptional wines that are now gaining international recognition.

The terroir of Korcula is unique, with the island's geography and climate playing a crucial role in the character of its wines. The island is home to two main indigenous grape varieties, Pošip and Grk, each with a distinct identity and flavour profile.

Pošip is a robust and fearless Croatian grape that was discovered growing wild in the forests near the villages of Smokvica and Čara. Over time, it has come to dominate the plains surrounding these villages. Pošip is a perfect companion for a hot summer day!

Wineries like Toreta and Tasovac have been producing top Pošip for generations, using modern methods and traditional techniques such as "Sur Lie" (on the lees) vinification in Croatian oak barrels, adding a rich texture to the wine. The vineyards in these areas benefit from rich, mineral-laden soils and a unique irrigation system built by the local communities, which helps to bring out the citrusy characteristics of this beloved wine.

Grk, often referred to as the "lady of Korcula," is another standout. This rare and precious grape grows almost exclusively in the sandy soils of Lumbarda, an ancient Greek settlement on the island. Grk is unique because it is a female grape variety, requiring cross-pollination from another grape to produce fruit-bearing vines. In Korcula, it is typically planted alongside the local red grape variety Plavac Mali in a 70/30 ratio.

The result is a fresh, crisp, mineral wine with flavour characteristics reminiscent of a fine Viognier. Grk is produced in limited quantities—only 40,000 to 50,000 bottles are made each year—making it one of the island's best-kept secrets. Recently, wineries Casa Boschi and Zure partnered to create a stunning Grk aged in a Hungarian amphora and then in old oak casks. This innovative approach is already showing great promise and is expected to be a standout wine in the coming years.

The rocky landscape of Korcula means that fertile land is scarce, and as a result, wine production is often small in scale but high in quality. For example, Sabulum, a local winery, produces only 5,000 bottles yearly! This scarcity and the island's unique terroir contribute to Korcula's wines' distinct character and exceptional quality.

Korcula Wine Tours offers more than just a tasting experience—they are an intimate journey into the heart of Korcula's winemaking culture. One of their most popular tours takes you through the small villages of Smokvica and Čara, where families have been making wine for generations. It's here, amidst the rolling vineyards and olive groves, that you truly understand the importance of wine to the island's identity. The tour includes tasting sessions of eleven different wines at three different wineries, each paired with homemade snacks, and is punctuated by stops at some of the island's most stunning viewpoints, like Pupnatska Luka. The breathtaking views, combined with the rich flavours of the wines, make for an unforgettable experience.

Korcula's wine tourism is still evolving, but the future looks incredibly bright. With each passing year, more visitors discover the island's unique wines, drawn by its rich history, the dedication of its winemakers, and the stunning landscapes that provide the perfect backdrop for a glass of Pošip or Grk. The marriage between Korcula and wine is a long-lasting one, and as someone fortunate enough to experience it firsthand, I can confidently say that it's a union worth celebrating!