2009 Puligny Montrachet les Enseigneres
By Domaine Coche-Dury
The 2009 Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Burgundy
The 2009 Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon is a vintage that perpetuates the laudable reputation of this prestigious Burgundian producer. Having had the privilege to monitor and muse over dozens of offerings from the storied wine lands of Burgundy, it’s a gratifying experience to witness an emblematic vintage burgeon into its fine age with such poise and distinction.
Reflections on a Remarkable Vintage
As we consider the investment-worthy vintages bestowed upon us by nature's grace, the year 2009 stands out for its remarkably congenial growing season in Burgundy. Aided by an auspicious spring and warm summer that facilitated superb ripening, the Chardonnay grapes reached optimal maturity, granting this Meursault Goutte d'Or an intensity seldem matched.
Exhibiting a sumptuous golden hue perfected over years in repose, the bouquet unfurls scents of almond, fresh honeycomb and subtle oaken whispers. On the palate, one finds a wine that is rich yet balanced, with fleshed-out notes of buttered citrus and ripe stone fruits that mingle with a mineral seam carved deep by time itself—a feature articulating the unique terroir of Goutte d'Or. This vintage has transcended its formative weather-induced blessings to deliver a tactile complexity and persistence that speaks clearly of its ancestry.
An Echo of Excellence in Every Sip
For the fine wine aficionado poised to enrich their collection or the devoted investor seeking an enigmatic addition, this offering holds considerable appeal. The 2009 Meursault Goutte d'Or reflects not only the distinguished clime of its inception but also the artisanal handiwork so intrinsic to Domaine des Comtes Lafon practices.
Sipping on this eloquent elixir one can't help but revel in its layered nuance, each sip narrating a moment in time when nature conspired to gift us something remarkable; it exercises both nostalgia for days past and anticipation for future maturation—a truly profound experience for senses and cellar alike.
Market price (CAD)
$18,410.00
12x75cl
Highest score
90
POP score
1106
Scores and tasting notes
The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres is wonderfully open. Though somewhat small-scaled, the style and character of the year are in evidence in this round, accessible wine. Sweet floral notes wrap around the radiant, ripe finish. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. Raphael Coche-Dury is just past his 30th birthday, but he has already spent more than half his life working at the family’s illustrious domaine. It is quite evident Raphael Coche intends to follow his father footsteps, so the future seems to be in very capable hands. Coche describes 2010 as a cold vintage, but one with a lot of concentration because of the extensive coulure (shatter). Conditions in 2009 were pretty much the diametrical opposite. August was very warm, which caused challenges as sugars mounted quickly, but the fruit was healthy. Coche told me he wasn’t a huge fan of the vintage, but found the wines improved as they freshened up after the malos. Coche-Dury fans know the estate bottles three separate Meursaults at the villages level which are unfortunately not identified on the labels, which personally I find a bit frustrating. Qualitatively the three wines are quite similar, but their personalities are not. I have provided notes on all three of the 2010s and two of the 2009s, but readers will have to check with their suppliers to know for certain which wine they are buying. The 2009s should drink well relatively early and appear to have the stuffing to also age very well. The 2010s may very well prove to be nearly immortal. Let me just say I can’t wait to taste these wines in finished form from bottle. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524
Antonio Galloni - The Wine Advocate, 30 August 2011