2009 Bonnes-Mares
By Maison Joseph Drouhin
2009 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy, France
Exploring the esteemed catalogue of Burgundian marvels, the 2009 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin emerges as a pinnacle of vinous artistry, particularly in light of its remarkable vintage specifics. Hailing from a year that blessed the region with harmony between the elements, this wine encapsulates the very quintessence of its terroir.
Articulating Elegance: The Vintage's Voice
The 2009 season in Burgundy was one graced with bountiful sunshine and an almost halcyon progression of climatic conditions. This serendipitous climate wove its magic into the vineyards of Bonnes-Mares, allowing for a grape maturity that comes but once in a generation. For collectors and enthusiasts alike, the 2009 vintage from this revered Maison stands not only as a testament to fine winemaking but also as an intelligent acquisition for the discerning investor.
A Bouquet Blossomed to Near Perfection
On approach, this Bonnes-Mares presents an olfactory ballet, a precise choreography of ripe cherry notes embellished with subtle hints of violet and earth – a homage to the sunlit days that nursed their creation. Yet, beneath this fragrance lies an empyrean depth; a reminder that this is not just another exemplary harvest, but the essence of Burgundian grandeur captured in liquid form.
The palate confirms what the nose suggests – structure and silkiness inextricably entwined. There's a resonant core of red fruit lubricated by a silky minerality, signatures of an exquisite terroir lovingly coaxed into expression by the gentle hands at Maison Joseph Drouhin.
As I reflect on the pantheon of fine wines that have graced my career, the 2009 Bonnes-Mares from Maison Joseph Drouhin certainly adorns one of those rarefied positions. Its mélange of opulence balanced with restraint; its depth paired with accessibility makes it not merely a bottle to uncork but an investment to cherish. Anticipating continued maturation, this vintage should hold court within savvy portfolios, maturing like an heirloom jewel – ever more lustrous as the seasons progress.
Market price (CAD)
$8,320.00
12x75cl
Highest score
93
POP score
384.62
Scores and tasting notes
The 2009 Bonnes Mares is at first an immediate, supple wine graced with generous fruit and a warm, engaging personality. Crushed rocks, mint and spices add complexity to a mid-palate and finish that turns decidedly linear and intense. I would not at all be surprised to see this shut down in bottle given the wine’s considerable underlying structure. This, too, is another wine that is holding back most, if not all, of its potential. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. Drouhin farms 75 hectares of vineyards according to biodynamic principles. Maceration and fermentation lasts about three weeks. The wines are then racked into oak in a cold part of the cellar to slow down the malos, although in 2009 they were entirely done by December. The estate leaves the wines on their lees for several months with one racking, or two if needed, prior to being assembled for bottling. New oak ranges from 25% for the entry-level wines to 50-65% for the grand crus. Veronique Drouhin thinks the 2009s will stay open throughout their lives, much as the 1985s have. All of these 2009s were bottled between early December, 2010 and January, 2011. Importer: Dreyfus Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
Antonio Galloni - The Wine Advocate, 1 May 2011