2005 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous
By Domaine du Clos Saint Jean
An intimate dive into the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous from Domaine du Clos Saint Jean
To traverse through the tasting notes of the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous from Domaine du Clos Saint Jean is to embark on an exquisite journey into the underpinnings of Rhône’s bountiful vineyards. The 2005 vintage - a period of lower yields but higher concentrations - uniquely etches its sensory print on this outstanding cuvée.
A tapestry of flavours, mirrored in investment opportunities
The virtuosos at Domaine du Clos Saint Jean have orchestrated a symphony of Grenache, Syrah and Vaccarese that harmonise impeccably with an encore of Cinsault. Reflecting Rhône's idiosyncratic terroir, they've generated not just a titillating potable, but a shrewd and promising opportunity for wine investors.
Endowed with rich ruby hues and a nosebreathing forth waves of ripe black fruit and spice, this vintage weaves an intricate tale as it breathes. On the palate, it's deeply refined - a cavalcade of fig, cherry confiture, tilled earth with subtle hints of liquorice strutting beneath the spotlight.
2005: A delightful dance of Mother Nature's caprices
The climatology of 2005 staged a significant role in crafting la Combe des Fous’s distinctive narrative. A year that coaxed apprehension with a cool damp spring, only to rally with a transformational bone-dry summer and winter stretch - produced grapes toeing the line between ripe and overripe while still retaining their acidity.
This balance of nature’s whimsy and winemaker’s deftness paints a masterpiece in the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape la Combe des Fous. Braiding ripe fruitiness with earthy depth, it bears the insignia of both the vintage and Rhône's distinct persona.
The wine unravels in multitudes, each layer adding texture to its investment value. This 2005 Domaine du Clos Saint Jean’s la Combe des Fous is an invitation to align one’s portfolio with nature's eccentricities immortalised within a cascade of profound flavours.
Market price (CAD)
$3,560.00
12x75cl
Highest score
100
POP score
107
Scores and tasting notes
Up there with the '07, yet in a different style, the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Combe des Fous is a blockbuster that tops out on my scale. Exotic, perfumed and layered, with incredible kirsch, ground herbs, pepper and hints of olive tapenade-like aromas and flavors, this beauty is full-bodied and flawless on the palate, with ultra-fine tannin structure, building richness and a finish that just won't quit. Given its depth of fruit, it's a sheer joy to drink even today, yet will continue to knock it out of the park over the coming decade or more. Since taking control of the estate in 2002, and bringing on board rock star consultant Philippe Cambie, the Maurel brothers has been knocking it out of the park in literally every vintage. 2004? Gorgeous wines and easily at the top in a recent retrospective. The cooler, rainy 2008? Beautiful ripeness and texture, and again, at the top of the hierarchy. 2011 is the same story, and it’s amazing what this team has accomplished in all of their vintages. Looking at this retrospective, we went through all of their cuvees going back to 2003. Unfortunately, there’s no new information here, and this tasting simply confirmed what myself and Robert Parker have been saying for some time now; Clos Saint Jean is at the top of their game and producing some of the most singular, hedonistic and brilliant wines in the world. Starting out with the classic Chateauneuf du Pape, it’s normally a blend of 75% Grenache, with the balance a mix of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault, Muscardin and Vaccarese. As is common at this estate, the Grenache is aged all in tank, and the other varieties in a mix of tank and barrels. While I think this cuvee always lags the Vieilles Vignes bottling, it is consistently outstanding and always a super value. Moving to the old vine cuvee, this is made especially for the US Market and is 85% tank aged, old vine Grenache, and the balance Syrah and Mourvedre. It too almost always represents a crazy value and has a broad drink window. I’m currently finishing up a case of the ’08, and purchased two cases of the 2010, which is just starting to open back up after closing down shortly after release. As to the Combe des Fous release, this cuvée comes from a single plot of vines and is based largely on Grenache, with roughly 20% Syrah and 10% each of Vaccarese and Cinsault in the blend. The Grenache is aged all in tank and the other components see time in mostly demi-muids. While the Deux ex Machina always impresses more with its overt power and muscle, this cuvee always seems more polished, fine and elegant to me. One of the greatest cuvees on earth, the Maurel brother’s Sanctus Sanctorum is 100% Grenache that comes from a single plot of vines in the La Crau lieu dit. Aged all in demi-muid, it’s been one of the greatest wines I’ve ever tasted, every time I’ve tasted it. All three of these were sheer perfection on this occasion, yet each has its own unique profile. Lastly, and always the most powerful of the cuvees, the Deus Ex Machina is a blend of 60% tank aged Grenache and 40% demi-muid aged Mourvedre that all comes from 70-100 year old vines. The Mourvedre component is really what defines this cuvee, and it possesses the most obvious structure and mid-palate richness in the lineup. Seeming to hit maturity around age 10 or so, it can be consumed relatively early in its life due to its wealth of fruit, texture, and incredibly polished tannin. In addition, don’t miss this cuvee in the lighter vintages, as even their 2004 and 2008 show classic character and no shortage of richness. Importers: Eric Solomon, European Cellars, Charlotte, NC; tel. (704) 358-1565
Jeb Dunnuck - The Wine Advocate, 27 August 2014