2017 Cheval Blanc
By Chateau Cheval Blanc
2017 Cheval Blanc from Chateau Cheval Blanc, Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux
The 2017 Cheval Blanc from Chateau Cheval Blanc demonstrates once again the prodigious craftsmanship of this eminent Saint-Émilion estate. Indeed, the vintage of 2017, whilst fraught with climatic challenges, proved to be a remarkable year for those vignerons who navigated the whims of nature with deft precision. The frost that struck Bordeaux in late April had many a vignoble reeling, yet the venerable plots of Cheval Blanc were spared. With reduced yields came an unintended boon; a concentration of quality over quantity that shines through in this vintage.
A Tenacious Vintage for Discerning Investors
In this exceptional offering, I find the artistry at play in the 2017 vintage is one that melds resilience with refinement. The astute investor will appreciate the discreet charm and character unique to this singular iteration. Cheval Blanc's signature blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc transcends the adversities of the vintage to deliver a wine of both power and finesse.
A Symphony of Elegance and Complexity
The 2017 Cheval Blanc presents a delicate bouquet brimming with dark fruit aromas and a whisper of spice; an olfactory delight that ushers taste to a palate graced by the silkiness of Merlot in seamless harmony with the structure offered by Cabernet Franc. The depth achieved, despite the cooler conditions, bemuses and bewitches in equal measure – lesser wines could but aspire to such heights in a year that tested even the most stalwart of vignerons.
It is within the layered complexity of this wine that I spy its profound potential for longevity. Here lies not just an elegant drink for today but indeed an intelligent addition to any discerning investor's portfolio, promising further revelations as it matures gracefully in one's cellar.
Thus, whether one's intention be immediate indulgence or patient cellaring, it is clear that the 2017 Cheval Blanc from Chateau Cheval Blanc is an illustrious candidate not only for editorial adulation but also for inclusion within cultivated collections. As ever, divesting into such illustrious wines remains an astute manoeuvre within our ever-evolving enological tapestry.
Market price (HKD)
HK$40,150.00
12x75cl
Highest score
98
POP score
233.33
Scores and tasting notes
This is tight and very tannic with a linear and steely backbone of texture. Full-bodied, compacted and complete. Muscular and flexing it but polished and toned. Wow. There is 6% cabernet sauvignon in the blend, which may be giving this even more strength. Very, very long. Very Left Bank in terms of the power and depth.
James Suckling - jamessuckling.com
The blend this year is 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Cabernet Franc and 56% Merlot, possessing an unusually high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Cheval Blanc needs a fair bit of coaxing to reveal notions of plum preserves, redcurrant jelly, kirsch and red roses plus emerging nuances of aniseed, Sichuan pepper, pencil lead and charcoal. Medium to full-bodied, the palate offers impressive intensity with layer upon layer of red and black flavors with sparks of minerals and floral notes plus a firm line of fine-grained tannins and bold freshness to support, finishing very long and very fragrant.
Lisa Perrotti-Brown - The Wine Advocate, 16 March 2020
The 2017 Cheval Blanc bristles with tension. Because of severe frost damage, in 2017, the Grand Vin includes a high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (14%), from gravelly soils, which gives the wine very unusual flavor and structure profile. Vibrant and pulsing with a real sense of direction, the 2017 is going to need a number of years to be at its very best. Even so, it is an utterly fascinating wine. The blend is 56% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, aging in 100% new oak.
Antonio Galloni - Antonio Galloni - vinous.com - May '18
The 2017 Cheval Blanc is composed of 56% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 14% Cabernet Sauvignon—an unusually high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon for this wine. Deep garnet-purple colored, it opens slowly to reveal a gorgeous lilacs, roses, licorice and black truffles nose over a compelling core of cassis, warm plums, wild blueberries and cigar box plus a waft of wood smoke. Medium to full-bodied, firm and earthy in character on the palate, it packs in tightly wound fruits and mineral accents, culminating in a long, perfumed finish. 50,000 bottles are to be produced.
Wine Advocate - Lisa Perrotti-Brown - robertparker.com
The 2017 Cheval Blanc comes from 97% first generation grapes and 3% second generation from two-thirds of the vineyard, using a sorting table to select the ripest berries that were matured separately in small vats. The rejected second generation were sold off in bulk and not blended into the deuxième vin. There is a high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon and comparatively lower percentage of Cabernet Franc due to the frost damage. So this is a more Left Bank Cheval Blanc using more the gravel soils than clay since the latter are colder. It has a tightly wound, almost Saint Estèphe-inspired bouquet, with fresh blackberry, cedar, wet clay and light iris-like aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, masculine in style, less corpulent than the 2015 or 2016, stricter and more linear, a “cool” Cheval Blanc that eschews the florality of previous vintages with a saline, marine-tinged finish. This is a cerebral Cheval Blanc, not the greatest in recent years, but one of the most interesting to sit and think about (and then drink of course!)
Neal Martin - Neal Martin - vinous.com - May '18