2011 Puligny Montrachet les Enseigneres
By Domaine Coche-Dury
2011 Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Burgundy, France
The Burgundian landscape of 2011 presented a tableau combining rigour with reward, encapsulated superbly by the ethereal grace of the Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon. My acquaintance with these hallowed rows of Chardonnay vines stretches back decades, yet it is the 2011 vintage that encapsulates a particular compelling narrative of weather and winemaking prowess.
An Oenophile’s Chronicle: The 2011 Vintage Nuances
A vintage of minor caprice, 2011 in Burgundy was marked by an early spring, followed by a temperate summer speckled with intervals of rainfall. Yet, in this ballet of elements, the Goutte d'Or vineyard, nestled within Meursault, stood resilient. The terroir's famed limestone soils have articulated a wine of exquisite tension – an articulation of place as much as time.
The Terroir’s Whisper: Tasting Notes
In the glass, this Meursault Goutte d'Or unfolds with an elegant narrative of both minerality and maturity. A bouquet where whispers of citrus zest commingle with a hint of marzipan betrays the complex fermentation and careful aging in oak – hallmarks of Domaine des Comtes Lafon’s expertise. On the palate, one is greeted by the melding of stone fruit character with an alabaster-like structure – a testament to the vintage's climatic idiosyncrasies, rendering both richness and precision. Its poised acidity ensures that investors in fine wines can anticipate graceful ageing potential.
The finish is long and undulating, echoing the minerality that is a signature trait from terroirs caressed by the vintage’s gentle warmth and light. It is already in a sumptuous phase of its evolution but promises further unfolding for those patient enough to witness its majestic trajectory.
Investment-worthy Poise: The Alchemy of Elements
For patrons and connoisseurs alike, the 2011 Meursault Goutte d’Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon stands as a paragon amongst its peers – a Burgundian symphony where climate, soil, and vintner artistry converge in harmony. It is indeed a wise addition to any portfolio for both its drinking potential and investment promise. As it continues to gain complexity and finesse in bottle, patience will be handsomely rewarded for those who possess this liquid treasure.
Market price (HKD)
HK$150,550.00
12x75cl
Highest score
93
POP score
1211.54
Scores and tasting notes
The 2011 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignieres has a strict, mineral-rich bouquet that is tightly wound at the moment. It is very focused, its reticence giving way to reveal undergrowth and dewy meadow scents (indeed, this bouquet evokes something “pastoral”). The palate is well-balanced with a beautiful line of acidity. This feels very suave in the mouth, harmonious and graceful, with touches of orange zest and dandelion on the finish. Drink 2016-2031. As I had anticipated, Raphael Coche requested that I visit after he had clocked off for the day. No problem – I’d rather he focuses on the vines than appease the demands of us “pesky” wine writers. This was actually my first visit to the domaine, which seems odd because it is many moons since I first fell in love with Jean-Francois Coche’s wines at a memorable tasting in London in the late 1990s. Since then, Raphael, still in his early thirties, has deftly slipped into his father’s shoes. Tall and the spitting image of papa, I had been forewarned that Raphael can be reticent at times. On the contrary, he was refreshingly garrulous, chatting not only about his own wines but enthusing about Pomerol after I espied a dusty bottle of 1987 Petrus incongruously perched on the shelf. In my opinion, and indeed others’, Raphael has subtly tweaked the style and perhaps even improved on what was already a winning formula. Recent vintages seem more consistent, perhaps even more aligned with their respective terroirs. On this visit, we tasted through most of the domaine’s 2011s that had been bottled the previous spring and are currently on the market. Raphael spoke enthusiastically about the 2011 vintage and rightly so. There is a natural sensibility to these wines, an approachability that is not always evident in their wines, proceeding to compare them to the 2001 vintage. My experience of this domaine’s wines means that I am happy to put long drinking windows for even the village crus, which I often reward a decade in bottle. Personally, I have found less premature oxidation at this address than others, in particular with respect to younger vintages, though nobody is totally immune. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524 and Berkmann Wines in the UK.
Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 29 April 2014