2012 Puligny Montrachet les Enseigneres
By Domaine Coche-Dury
2012 Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Burgundy
Enticing investors and connoisseurs alike, the 2012 Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon exudes a profundity and poise that firmly stands out in the echelon of fine Burgundian whites. Observing this vintage, one is seduced by its resilience and charm - qualities imparted by the particularly challenging climatic conditions of the year that sculpted its distinctive aspects.
The Allure of Adversity: A Vintage's Triumph
For those conversant with Burgundy's capricious weather patterns, 2012 was a winemaker's trial by frost and hail, reducing yields but inadvertently intensifying flavour concentration in the berries that survived. It is this struggle that chiselled out the vintage's character; the Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon emerged from the fray with an enviable balance and refined structure.
A Harmonious Composition
The 2012 rendition of Meursault Goutte d'Or parades an eloquent assembly of everything fine Meursault should epitomise. The bouquet unwinds with an intoxicating repertoire of honeysuckle, toasted hazelnuts, and a flicker of flintiness reminiscent of wet stones just kissed by rain. On the palate, there's an orchestral performance of crisp golden apple notes cradled by a worthy oaky resonance—a testament to judicious barrelling that lends gravitas without overshadowing the fruit's articulate expression.
The infrastructure of this wine—a well-executed acidity mingling with a velvety mouthfeel—assures it a place among top-tier investments. It's a zenith of minerality and creaminess all at once, leaving a lingering aftertaste that echoes its regality long after the glass is set down.
Such equilibrium suggests not only immediate enticement but also predicts maturation potential. Remember, patience rewards the wine investor as much as the drinker. As the 2012 Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon continues to evolve, it will undoubtedly unfold even deeper layers of its already multifaceted persona.
Concluding Vintage Perspective
In summary, the 2012 vintage from Domaine des Comtes Lafon is one for both immediate pleasure and enduring value. The interplay between its sumptuous character and poised vivacity offers a taste profile that richly rewards those discerning enough to invest in its liquid splendour.
Market price (HKD)
HK$138,700.00
12x75cl
Highest score
94
POP score
1036.43
Scores and tasting notes
The 2012 Puligny Montrachet les Enseignères repeated its stellar performance from earlier this year. It just has outstanding mineralité and focus on the nose, the reductive element perhaps a little strong at the moment (more pronounced than the bottle tasted at the Domaine). The palate is taut and linear on the entry with freshly squeezed lime, citrus lemon and a touch of blood orange toward the "tender" finish. Afford this another year in bottle and you will have a quite brilliant white Burgundy on your hands.
Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 27 August 2015