2006 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
By Domaine Comte de Vogue
2006 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Domaine Comte de Vogue, Burgundy, France
The 2006 vintage in Burgundy will be remembered as a herald of resilience, where the tenacity of the vignerons shone through a challenging growing season. Within this milieu of climatic whimsy, the 2006 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Domaine Comte de Vogue emerges as a testimony to the alchemy between human endeavour and terroir.
Remarkable Preservation Amidst Climatic Oddities
In an era where the realm of fine wine investment increasingly recognizes Burgundy as a beacon of value, the 2006 Bonnes-Mares from Domaine Comte de Vogue warrants astute consideration. This vintage exemplifies the unyielding pursuit of quality that courses through the veins of Domaine Comte de Vogue's philosophy. Despite a turbulent season with uneven weather patterns, including dampness that threatened rot, Bonnes-Mares' sumptuous terroir yielded grapes that were remarkably preserved from afflictions.
A Vintage Singularity: Elegance in Asperity
Tasting the 2006 Bonnes-Mares reveals a labyrinthine array of cherries and ripe forest berries encased in a chiselled structure. Tertiary notes of sous-bois and allspice are beginning to peek through the still-assertive tannins. It is evident that this wine is on its ascent towards plenitude – an investable attribute for connoisseurs seeking age-worthy gems.
What distinguishes this offering is its poised response to adversity; an equilibrium struck between fruit concentration and poised acidity—echoing the stamina encapsulated within this perspicacious vintage.
Conclusion
In synopsis, the stature of the 2006 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Domaine Comte de Vogue does not merely rest upon the laurels of its esteemed origin. It is also sculpted by the vintage's unique narrative—a tale of overcoming climatic caprice to grace cellars with its ever-unfolding grandeur. An illustrious component for any investment-grade portfolio, it possesses all the curvature and complexity that underpin long-term appreciation in a world increasingly captivated by Burgundy's offerings.
Market price (HKD)
HK$60,220.00
12x75cl
Highest score
94
POP score
450
Scores and tasting notes
Mint, concentrated red and black fruits, smoked meat, and black pepper pungently scent the De Vogue 2006 Bonnes Mares. These migrate with almost implosive intensity to a palate lushly textured though finely tannic and almost implacably dense yet shot through with electric energy. Here are both the caressing and invigorating aspects at once present in so many of the best 2006s, each accentuated. Like so many young wines of its appellation, this is relatively backward and slightly unruly, but the longer the wine takes on air the more both its senses of richness and energy are enhanced. I would give this at least 3-4 years in bottle and anticipate at least 10-12 years of riveting performance. Francois Millet is always keen to pinpoint the expression of fruit he finds in each vintage, and for him 2006 is an instance of "jellied" fruit character. I can certainly agree with him about the seductiveness of the vintage at this address, and his laconic comment on the communal hail – "not too problematic" – seems clearly born out by the quality this estate has achieved. (I unfortunately did not have chance to taste the de Vogue Amoureuses post-malo, so I must refrain from offering a note.) Imported by Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770; also a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 21 December 2009