2012 Chambertin
By Domaine Dujac
2012 Chambertin from Domaine Dujac, Burgundy, France
The 2012 Chambertin from Domaine Dujac stands as a formidable exemplar of the majesty that is Burgundian Pinot Noir, especially when hailing from the esteemed appellation of Chambertin. Developing a patina of reflection over decades dedicated to the vinous art-form that is fine wine criticism, it suffices to say that certain vintages resonate with such uniqueness they flirt with being constitutive to one's palate chronology. The 2012 vintage falls squarely into this illustrious category.
A Vintage Distinct: The Testimony of Terroir
The narrative of 2012 in Burgundy was written with myriad climatic twists -- a capricious growing season that culminated in wines sculpted through adversity, emerging with stories ripe for the telling. For Domaine Dujac, this presented an opportunity, seized magnificently, to showcase the resilience and nuance of their sacred terrains.
This 2012 Chambertin encapsulates that narrative beautifully -- a sumptuous tapestry of concentrated dark fruits interlaced with an earthy undertone that evokes the peaty whispers of Burgundy's soil after rain. A hint of spice signs off the nose and entwines with a palate where structure meets elegance; muscular tannins drape themselves luxuriously over velvety fruit, allowing for poised acidity to guide through to an exceptionally long finish.
An Indelible Investment In Pleasure and Profit
Connoisseurs seeking a cellar centrepiece could not do better than this 2012 Chambertin from Domaine Dujac. While its youthful exuberance is undeniable, investors can harbour no doubt as to its potential for graceful ageing -- therein lies its latent investment promise. A true contemplation of viticultural acumen, it has evolved within bottle confines to bloom into what it promises now and what will undoubtedly continue in years hence.
Inclosing my thoughts on this noble wine: the 2012 Chambertin from Domaine Dujac embodies the year's trials and triumphs. It's a vintage draped in clarity amidst chaos, summoning expressions so distinct, they elevate the liquid narrative into oenological lore. It is no mere academic exercise to invest in such offerings; it is an homage to the alchemy of time and nature -- and rest assured, this particular alchemy boasts a most sublime result.
Market price (HKD)
HK$356,150.00
12x75cl
Highest score
96
POP score
2328.75
Scores and tasting notes
There are two barrels of the 2012 Chambertin Grand Cru this year. The nose is broody at first, gradually unfurling to reveal lovely blackberry, forest floor and sea cave scents that are beautifully defined. It gains energy as it opens up. The palate is firm in the mouth. It is quite structured with admirable depth, yet it is an introspective Chambertin that is long and intense, yet very linear in the barrel, very serious and cerebral. This will be a long-term Chambertin. Tasting in the cellars of Domaine Dujac in Morey Saint Denis is always an educational, enlightening experience, granting you a useful picture of how some of the top vineyards performed in the Cote de Nuits during a given year. Alec Seysses was on hand to guide me around his particularly cold cellar, one of those occasions when my warm hands might be bad for pastry, but ideal for warming glasses. “It was the fourth poor year in a row in terms of quantity,” he explained, showing me the concrete eggs now employed at the domaine, a less common sight here in Burgundy compared to Bordeaux. “although in 2012 we had a regular crop of the village crus and the younger vines did well. We averaged around 20 hectoliters per hectare. Everything was racked in early September but there is some reduction from the cold cellar. The softness of the tannins strikes me as a character of the vintage. It is more a dark fruit vintage than a red fruit vintage. Sugars were between 12.5 and 13%, with a few 13.3% here and there. I find the wines similar to 2010, but the 2012 is a little more charming because the tannins are not quite as strong.” Tasting through the complete range of wines from the small batch of negociant wines under “Dujac Fils et Pere” to the clutch of grand crus, it was clear that propitious terroirs that influenced the wines greatly. The village crus were mostly commendable in their own right, but the real excitement begins as you broach the premier crus, where the barrel samples achieve high degrees of complexity and nuance. Like many of the top growers, I was pleased to see individual terroirs articulated with great clarity in 2012, perhaps more so than the 2011s. These barrel samples seemed to contain so much energy: tightly coiled springs of fermented grape juice, brimming with tension and freshness that Jeremy and Alec will endeavor to capture once in bottle. I have little doubt that they will succeed. Importers: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724; Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Chambers & Chambers, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500 and though several merchants in the UK including Berry Brother & Rudd.
Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 29 December 2013