2007 Clos de la Roche
By Domaine Dujac
2007 Clos de la Roche from Domaine Dujac, Burgundy, France
The 2007 vintage from Burgundy often plays the role of the understated artist, crafting a tapestry with a subtlety that perhaps eluded its more flamboyant brethren. Among these vinous Picassos, the 2007 Clos de la Roche from Domaine Dujac is a masterstroke of delicate complexity and harmony that renders it an appealing prospect for discerning wine investors.
Burgundy's Elegance: A Study in Terroir Expression
Domaine Dujac stands as a beacon of finesse in Burgundy's storied landscape, and the 2007 vintage has proven to be a testament to the domaine’s meticulous approach to viticulture and winemaking. As Clos de la Roche vineyards basked in the gentle sunshine of an unequally temperate growing season, this expression underwent an evolution that would capture the hearts of those who revere subtlety over opulence.
The hallmark of the 2007 Clos de la Roche is its bouquet - a libretto of scents ranging from ripe cherries to damp earth, intertwined with whispers of spices and florals that create a synthesis invoking the serenity of Burgundian autumns. The palate follows with an articulate execution of balance: ripe but not overt fruits are cradled by fine-grained tannins in a dance that lingers with both grace and intention.
Investing in Equilibrium
Both challenging and rewarding, the 2007 Burgundian vintage underscores the potential for longevity under the right cellaring conditions. With an intrinsic poise between mature fruit characteristics and still-vibrant acidity, this particular vintage is rounding into form where its investment appeal matches its gustatory delights.
For investors, acquiring the 2007 Clos de la Roche should not merely be an investment in bottles but also an investment in history and craftsmanship. With Domaine Dujac’s pedigree woven into its fibre, this vintage is a blend of climatic adaptation and winemaking acumen — aspects meticulously considered by those looking to diversify portfolios with wines possessing storied provenances and age-worthy structures.
In summary, while other vintages may make bolder statements at first glance, the nuanced composition of the 2007 Clos de la Roche from Domaine Dujac offers a symphony in restraint and elegance — a collectible crescendo for those attuned to Burgundy's less obvious virtuosities.
Market price (HKD)
HK$112,410.00
12x75cl
Highest score
91
POP score
1069.09
Scores and tasting notes
Black tea, black pepper, cedar, and Latakia tobacco pungency on the nose of the Dujac 2007 Clos de la Roche continue to inform a palate of ripe berries laced with marzipan. The somehow metaphorically dark and impressively pungent elements here really take hold in a long finish, for a rather brooding personality despite the impressive primary fruit. This should be fascinating to compare in its evolution over the next 4-6 years with the more charming, elegant corresponding Clos St.-Denis. The Dujac 2008s were not racked until last December, and bottling took place January through March. “The malic acid numbers were high-ish, but not significantly higher than in, say, 2006 or 2001,” says Jeremy Seysses in an effort to explain what he admitted were “for us, excessively late malos. I have a feeling it was a lack of nutrients that were wash out,” he continues, since, after all, “it rained a lot in 2008” with, he adds, “poor fruit set proving to be the vintage’s saving grace. I think we would actually have had less to harvest (i.e. worth keeping) if we had had a better fruit set. There was rot, but can you find it in any of the wines? That’s a credit to how far Burgundy has come along in terms of sorting” (which Dujac does exclusively in the vineyard, not on sorting tables – the name of their U.S. importer ironically notwithstanding). “I didn’t love my lack of options in 2007,” says Seysses of the preceding season, “so we picked early – earlier even than in 2003.” In vinification “we decided not to force too much, and just to keep it charming,” which is exactly how I thought the wines turned out. “At Domaine Dujac, we’re never been that attached to deep color, so we’re quite tolerant (in that regard), and the least thing we wanted to do was make hard wines. I de-stemmed more (than usual, or than in 2008). The fruit felt fragile, so in barrel I kept the wines under a bit more free sulfur than usual, which reinforced their lightness.” Seysses opines that 2007 was not a year in which old selections displayed their overall superiority to clones, because “if yo(‘re Pinots) were riper earlier, you were ripe while it was raining,” whereas in 2008 you could scarcely get too much ripeness. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2010