2006 Bonnes Mares
By Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier
The 2006 Bonnes Mares from Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier, Burgundy, France
In the lexicon of Burgundian viticulture, certain vintages convey stories far beyond the norm - such is the tale of the 2006 Bonnes Mares from Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier. This vintage emerged from a season of meteorological vagaries, yet under the vigilant tutelage of its dedicated vintners, it transcended to embody the resolute character of Bonnes Mares.
Legacy Encapsulated in a Bottle
Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier has long been whispered amongst connoisseurs as a custodian of Burgundy's winemaking heritage. The 2006 offering from this storied domaine exhibits a convergence of meticulous cultivation and the favourable limestone-clay terroirs which magnify the Pinot Noir's innate grace.
Investing in Time-Tested Terroir
An astute addition for fine wine investors, the 2006 Bonnes Mares reveals an intricacy that commands cerebral contemplation. As one savours a glass, they are met with a harmonious ballet of dark fruits interlacing with earthy undertones and an ethereal touch of oak – an assemblage paying homage to the climatic idiosyncrasies of its birth year. Decanted with patience, it unveils its potency in a crescendo of nuances, affirming its prestigious lineage.
A not insignificant accomplishment under capricious skies, this vintage resonates with vitality, projecting an ageing potential that astutely aligns with investment foresight. Its robust structure paired with underlying finesse assures that the 2006 Bonnes Mares will endure splendidly in both complexity and value.
In summation, to imbibe Domaine Jacques-Frederic Mugnier’s 2006 Bonnes Mares is to partake in an enological odyssey that enriches both palate and portfolio. A stellar beacon amongst its peers, it stands as a testament to the tenacity and skill inherent in crafting Burgundy's liquid tapestry.
Market price (HKD)
HK$130,480.00
12x75cl
Highest score
93
POP score
1050
Scores and tasting notes
Chateau de Chambolle's 2006 Bonnes Mares – which I was unable to re-taste after bottling – smells strikingly of boysenberry and blueberry, accompanied by bittersweet, high-toned herbal concentrates, black tea, crushed stone, and peat. In the mouth this is velvety yet displays invigoration of tart fruit skin, cardamom, white pepper, and mineral impingement, as well as uncanny lift, and its pure blue fruits are transparent to myriad finishing nuances. This shares with the corresponding 2005 its density, dark mystery, and stony mineral depth, but practically crackles with static electric energy and boasts mysteriously levitational length. I see no reason to defer the pleasure of its company, but at the same time this impeccably balanced and refined version of its cru should be worth following for at least 12-15 years. When asked what he had done differently in 2006 when compared with 2005, Frederic Mugnier replied, "Nothing. I want the character of the vintage to be reflected in the wine as much as the terroir, so I try to hold everything else as constant as possible." While that statement might reflect a bit of hyperbole, it's hard to argue with a collection like Mugnier's 2006s, its wines reflective of their vintage, yet the best of them not really dramatically different from their 2005 counterparts. Certainly they are no less profoundly delicious, and will give more pleasure sooner. (For some details on Mugnier methodology, consult my report in issue 170.) Picking began here ahead of the ban de vendange, "at absolutely the same levels of sugar as in 2005" – meaning at 12.75-14% potential alcohol – although Mugnier hastens to note that it was only well along in the evolution of this collection – and to his surprise – that its ability to hold its own qualitatively with some of the great vintages at his estate became evident. "There wasn't much hail," he relates, "and only in a few sectors did we have to perform serious triage," which chez Mugnier – as at Rousseau – means in the vineyard, not on sorting tables. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011-333-80-24-29-70
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 21 December 2009