2008 Griotte Chambertin
By Maison Joseph Drouhin
2008 Griotte Chambertin from Maison Joseph Drouhin, Burgundy, France
The 2008 vintage in Burgundy stands as a testament to the discerning agrarian practices and meticulous winemaking approaches of Maison Joseph Drouhin, a historic bastion within this revered viticultural landscape. The coveted Griotte Chambertin, hailing from one of the most cherished parcels in Gevrey-Chambertin, reflects a harvest that flourished despite initial hesitations caused by climatic capriciousness early in the season.
Precision and Patience: A Vintage Carved by Time
The Griotte Chambertin vineyard benefits from an enviable position, with its well-drained soil and optimal sun exposure contributing to the distinct terroir expression in its wines. 2008 stands uniquely, framed by an autumnal redemption—where meticulous berry selection and vinification have drawn out finesse over might, complexity over exuberance. Unlike other vintages marked by opulence such as 2005 or 2009, 2008 calls to mind the artisanal ethos of “less is more.”
An Unexpected Encore for Investors and Connoisseurs
Upon tasting, the 2008 Griotte Chambertin from Maison Joseph Drouhin reveals an intriguing dichotomy between lithe elegance and understated intensity—the hallmark of a seasoned performer rather than an impetuous debutant. Cool red fruits interlace with whispers of underbrush and a grounding minerality. Delightfully counterpoised tannins betray the careful barrel ageing that is harmonised without overshadowing the wine's inherent voice.
One must commend the resilience displayed by this vintage as it has gracefully evolved with age. From an investment perspective, such attributes render the 2008 Griotte Chambertin a compelling addition to diversified portfolios, both for its growing rarity and its reputation within Burgundian circles for defying expectation.
To encapsulate, this Griotte Chambertin captures the essence of its vintage—a dance of precision and nature's grace. It extends an invitation to grasp a moment when Burgundy's caprices were met with savoir-faire at Maison Joseph Drouhin; a masterstroke transformed into liquid poetry that aligns elegantly with both passion-driven collecting and astute wine investment strategies.
Market price (HKD)
HK$45,170.00
12x75cl
Highest score
91
POP score
430
Scores and tasting notes
Smoky, resinous, and leathery overtones to the Drouhin 2008 Griotte-Chambertin go on to complement a palate dominated by sweet red raspberry preserves, but to which its combination of firm tannins and chalkiness lend contrast. I tend to attribute the smoky aura here at least in part to the toast of barrels, and there is a hint of caramel in the finish that points me in the same direction, but Veronique Boss-Drouhin points out that the level of new wood here is no different than on the estate’s other grand crus, and thinks it is a slight reduction that prompts the smokiness. In that connection, it is true this becomes both more expressive and brighter in its expression of fruit acids after some time open or a good shaking. I suspect this will prove to be at least a 10-12 year keeper. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2010