Plovdiv and the Thracian Lowlands: A Wine Lover’s Paradise
Bulgaria’s ancient yet vibrant city, Plovdiv, is a cultural and historical marvel. But beyond its cobbled streets and Roman amphitheatre lies an often-overlooked treasure: its rich winemaking heritage.
Visiting in November, just after the harvest, offered a perfect opportunity to witness the region’s vinous offerings at their most expressive. From the historic vineyards and wineries in the Thracian Lowlands to the modern wine bar scene in Plovdiv City, this trip combined the old and the new, with plenty of opportunities to taste and compare.
A Brief History of Winemaking in the Thracian Lowlands
Wine has been a staple in this region for over 6,000 years, with Thracian tribes among the earliest known winemakers. The Thracians revered wine not just as a drink but as a bridge to the divine - Dionysus, the god of wine, was originally a Thracian deity before the Greeks borrowed (or stole) him for their pantheon.
Roman rule brought more structured viticulture, and Bulgarian wines continued to thrive through medieval times, bolstered by monasteries that safeguarded winemaking knowledge. The Ottoman period saw a decline, with restrictions on alcohol, but winemaking resurged in the 20th century. Today, Bulgaria is reclaiming its place on the global wine map, particularly with indigenous varieties like Mavrud and Rubin, alongside internationally favoured grapes.
Traditional vs Modern Winemaking in Bulgaria
Bulgarian winemaking is an intriguing mix of old-world charm and modern precision. Traditional methods, such as fermenting in clay amphorae and prolonged skin contact for reds, coexist with state-of-the-art technology, stainless steel tanks, and carefully controlled maceration times.
Bendida Winery in Brestovitsa exemplifies this duality. They honour the past by focusing on indigenous varieties and employing natural fermentation techniques, yet their modern touch ensures precision and consistency. Comparing a traditionally produced Mavrud with a sleek, international-style Cabernet Sauvignon makes for an enlightening tasting experience.
The Grape Varieties of the Plovdiv Region
While Bulgaria is home to many international grape varieties, the stars of the show in the Plovdiv region are its Indigenous grapes:
- Mavrud: A bold, tannic red with deep blackberry, spice, and leather notes. This variety ages beautifully, developing complexity over time.
- Rubin: A cross between Syrah and Nebbiolo, Rubin is fruit-forward yet structured, with plum, cherry, and peppery nuances.
International varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc also thrive here, often blended with local grapes to create unique expressions.
Local Winery Visits
Bendida Winery is a hidden gem, producing small-batch, high-quality wines with a focus on terroir. Walking through their vineyards, you can see the diversity of soils - sandy loam, limestone, and clay - all contributing to the complexity of their wines.
The highlight of the visit was tasting their Mavrud Reserve, which is inky, structured, and layered with dark fruit, tobacco, and spice. Their Rubin was equally compelling, showcasing a vibrant, peppery character with silky tannins. It’s the kind of wine that makes you wonder why Rubin isn’t more widely known outside Bulgaria.
A separate visit to the Dragomir Winery Estate further showcased the diversity of Bulgarian winemaking. Located near Plovdiv, Dragomir focuses on both Indigenous and international varieties, crafting wines that balance tradition and innovation.
The tasting session included their signature Alchemist Mavrud, a deeply structured wine with notes of ripe blackberries, cocoa, and a hint of smokiness. Their Pitos Rubin & Merlot Blend was another standout, offering a harmonious mix of rich fruit, elegant spice, and supple tannins. The meticulous approach at Dragomir, careful vineyard management, precise oak ageing, and minimal intervention demonstrate why Bulgarian wines deserve more international recognition.
Wine Tasting in the City
A visit to Plovdiv wouldn’t be complete without indulging in its burgeoning wine bar scene. The Cork & Fork, a cosy yet sophisticated spot in the city, offers an expertly curated selection of Bulgarian wines, making it an ideal place to explore the country's vinous diversity.
Pairing wine with Bulgarian cuisine is an art form. With many fascinating combinations, a personal highlight was Cabernet Franc with aged Kashkaval Cheese: A marriage of structure and saltiness, with the wine’s herbal notes accentuating the cheese’s nutty character.
A Few Fun Facts Collected Along the Way
- The Thracians may have been among the first to introduce oak barrel ageing long before the French made it fashionable.
- The Mavrud grape is said to have been named after a rebellious warrior whose mother hid a vine during an alcohol ban imposed by a Bulgarian khan. The wine allegedly gave him superhuman strength in battle - history meets legend!
- Bulgaria was once the fourth-largest wine producer in the world in the 1970s and ’80s, thanks to mass production during the Communist era.
Plovdiv, Bulgaria, Worth a Visit?
Plovdiv offers a fascinating lens through which to explore Bulgarian wine - steeped in history yet forward-looking. The experience of visiting Bendida Winery and Dragomir Winery Estate, and indulging in a well-paired meal at Cork & Fork highlights the best of both worlds: traditional winemaking methods coexisting with modern innovation.
Yet, Plovdiv is more than just a wine lover’s retreat; it’s a city where history, culture, and gastronomy converge in the most delightful way. Walking through its Old Town, past ornate Revival-era mansions and Roman ruins, it’s impossible not to feel the weight of centuries pressing gently on your shoulders - like a well-aged Mavrud, complex and full of character. The wine culture here is not a passing trend but a deeply ingrained tradition that dates back millennia, something you can taste in every bottle.
Bulgaria may not yet have the prestige of Bordeaux or Tuscany, but its wines are gaining attention for all the right reasons. The region's indigenous varieties, particularly Mavrud and Rubin, tell a story in every glass - one of resilience, adaptation, and rediscovery. Each sip is a reminder that Bulgaria’s winemaking traditions are not only surviving but thriving, with winemakers blending age-old methods with innovative techniques to create something truly special.
Beyond the wine, Plovdiv’s growing culinary scene adds another layer to the experience. Whether enjoying a rustic dish of Kavarma paired with a deep, brooding Mavrud or savouring a delicate, herb-infused trout alongside a crisp, mineral-driven Bulgarian white, the city’s food culture enhances every tasting. Pairing local wines with traditional Bulgarian cuisine elevates the experience from enjoyable to unforgettable.
And then there’s the people. The warmth of the winemakers, the passion of the sommeliers, and the sheer hospitality of the locals make the experience all the richer. At both Bendida and Dragomir, winemakers are more than happy to share their knowledge, pouring not just wine but stories, history, and insight into every glass. There is a genuine pride in Bulgaria’s winemaking resurgence, and visitors are welcomed with open arms into this revival.
For those who appreciate discovering underappreciated wine regions before the rest of the world catches on, Plovdiv is an unmissable destination. And after a trip like this, it’s impossible not to leave with a newfound appreciation for the region’s vinous treasures - perhaps even a bottle or two (or a case) to continue the journey back home.
