2007 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru
By Domaine Comte de Vogue
2007 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Domaine Comte de Vogue, Burgundy, France
In the intricate tapestry of Burgundy's illustrious terroirs, the 2007 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Domaine Comte de Vogue intertwines the elegance and complexity that only a Grand Cru vineyard can yield with the distinct attributes delivered by this particular vintage. A season marked by moderate temperatures and timely sunshine, 2007 was a year where meticulous vineyard management and precise timing in harvesting were key to achieving brilliance.
A Vintage Embracing Elegance and Prowess
Domaine Comte de Vogue's historical connection to their vines is palpable in the way the 2007 vintage presents its story. A cool end to the summer resulted in a slow ripening of the Pinot Noir grapes, allowing for a culmination of nuanced intricacies typically masked in hotter years. Wine investors will find a calculated measure of freshness underpinning the ripe berry notes, an intriguing balance not often found in warmer vintages.
Structured yet Supple: The Quintessential Collector's Choice
Few wines provide as persuasive an argument for patience as does this Bonnes-Mares. Now at a stage where its potential is unveiled, it graces the palate with structured yet supple tannins that intertwine with vestiges of dark cherry and a hint of sous bois. Silken in texture with a lingering finish that dares not fade hastily, this 2007 offering shows off what finesse truly means in the realm of fine wines.
As one contemplates wine investment opportunities, it is impossible to overlook this poised and polished expression from Domaine Comte de Vogue. The 2007 vintage, gentle on its inception yet triumphant in its evolution, stands as a testament to the enfolding layers of time coupled with the virtuosity of this storied producer. Indeed, for those seeking to embellish their collection with a Burgundian gem, this Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru articulates its worth both in the glass and in the portfolio.
The narrative of the 2007 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru from Domaine Comte de Vogue is one of harmony between climate and savoir-faire; an intricate ballet where Mother Nature's whim meets the vigneron's adept hand. To explore this wine is to understand the beauty etched by the year's gentle climatic brushstrokes on Burgundy’s finest canvas. It stands among its peerless peers as a beacon for those looking to expand their curated selections with singular excellence and investable grace.
Market price (GBP)
£4,590.00
12x75cl
Highest score
94
POP score
327.86
Scores and tasting notes
De Vogue’s 2007 Bonnes Mares calls to mind sweet-tart black raspberry candies and herbal lozenges, along with notes of brown spices and smoky black tea. Rich, sedate, and provocatively sweet and perfumed, this manages simultaneously to preserve a saline savor and suggestion of lobster shell reduction that precludes anyone calling it a “fruit bomb.” The smoky and – for lack of a better covering term – “mineral” elements accompany this Bonnes Mares’ soothing finish all the way to its distant end. No doubt there is at least a decade’s worth of seduction and intrigue on hand, but here too, I would not hesitate to relish them significantly sooner. Francois Millet – always keen to pinpoint the expression of fruit he finds in each vintage – characterizes that of 2008 as “syrup-like,” and of 2007 as “candied.” I am skeptical that these metaphors can be generalized, but under no circumstances should “syrup-like” be taken as an attempt to deny the brightness or transparency displayed by so many of the best 2008s, including these. “To have been picked late” – in this instance, starting September 27 – “to have been picked cold, and to have fermented very slowly to created the largest amount of glycerol to combine with the freshness of the vintage,” opines Millet, constitutes a significant part of the 2008s’ secret, seduction, even mystery. “Late malo” – here completed in August – he adds, “was also good, so that the vintage could have a true childhood, and slowly, surely build itself. If we had had a southern wind when the weather changed, maybe we would have lost that identity of 2008. But by there being a northern wind, the evolution was continued” i.e. in a constant, cool trajectory. Not to short-change it, the 2007 vintage collection here is one of those few capable of standing direct comparison to its immediate successor – or indeed to nearly any other vintage from this address. Imported by Dreyfus Ashby, New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770; also a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93
David Schildknecht - The Wine Advocate, 28 June 2010