1996 Clos St Denis
By Domaine Dujac
1996 Clos St Denis from Domaine Dujac, Burgundy, France
Among the tapestry of Burgundian terroirs, the 1996 Clos St Denis from Domaine Dujac distinguishes itself with a striking composure that has evolved exquisitely over time. Jeremy Seysses, at the helm of Domaine Dujac during this era, deftly navigated the idiosyncrasies of the vintage, culminating in a wine that resonates with savvy investors and connoisseurs alike.
Legacy and Craft: A Tapestry of Terroir
The 1996 vintage in Burgundy was characterised by a befitting tension between acidity and ripeness—a product of a serene September followed by a harvest that flirted with October's chill. This particular season's slow-paced maturation granted the grapes a remarkable depth of flavour, paired with a structural integrity seldom found in warmer years. The interplay between these elements is vividly expressed within each bottle of 1996 Clos St Denis from Domaine Dujac.
Investment Merit: A Vintage Worth Holding
The gravitas of the 1996 vintage is not lost on those seeking to bolster their fine wine portfolios. Its investment appeal lies in its poised maturation; a testament to its longevity and capability to develop nuanced complexity over time. For those who appreciate precision in their Burgundian acquisitions, this vintage stands as a sterling testament to the mastery of Domaine Dujac's winemaking.
The sensory profile is distinguished by its aromatic opulence—dark cherry and spice are elegantly cocooned by earthy undertones and a whisper of oak. On the palate, it unveils itself like intricate lacework; tannins refined yet discernible, cradling the vibrant fruit core that belies the wine's age. The finish is persistent, leaving traces of mineralité and maturity—the hallmarks of an eminent Burgundian vintage.
In sum, the 1996 Clos St Denis from Domaine Dujac remains an eloquent expression of Burgundy's enigmatic climate and nuanced craft. With each sip capturing the essence of its excellent lineage, this wine represents not merely a drink but an investment in a moment crystallised by time—a narrative in a glass that continues to unfold for those astute enough to appreciate its storied journey.
Market price (GBP)
£29,760.00
12x75cl
Highest score
91
POP score
2705.45
Scores and tasting notes
This bright ruby-colored wine exhibits raspberries, violets, porcini mushrooms, and black cherries on the nose. Extremely well-balanced, this wine is oily-textured, rich, medium-to-full-bodied, and offers a gorgeous mouthful of sweet cherries, earth, and metallic flavors that linger on the finish amidst traces of lightly charred oak. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2006. My visit to the Domaine Dujac was perplexing. Jacques Seysses, the estate's owner and director, informed me that the 1996 vintage was defined by its low acidity. This statement was shocking to hear as I had already been tasting the vintage's wines for a few weeks (I had started at the southern extremity of the Cote d'Or and was working my way north) and everybody I had visited had expressed the contrary. Upon tasting Dujac's wines I understood his position. While 1996 reds at virtually every estate of the Cote are packed with crisp, juicy, and lively berry fruit, Dujac's are jammy, supple, and sultry - more reminiscent of 1985s or 1990s than 1996s. The hundreds of 1996s I tasted indicate that the Seysses are wrong in their assessment of the vintage as a whole, but simply reflects the character of their estate's wines. Seysses believes, and I concur, that his 1995s are more concentrated and structured - and will therefore require more cellaring - than his 1996s. The estate's yields were high in 1996 (almost fifty percent higher than in 1995), ranging from 48 hectoliters/hectare in the village appellations to 42 h/h for the grand crus, yet sugar levels were slightly higher than in 1995. Importer: Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661.
Pierre Rovani - The Wine Advocate, 30 August 1998