Cult Insider

2 YEAR ANNIVERSARY EDITION

EDITION 025 | NOVEMBER 2024

Welcome to our two-year anniversary edition of the Cult Insider!

This time two years ago, we were excited to release the first issue of what was then just a new client newsletter idea. Fast forward 24 months, 24 editions, 168 articles, and countless hours of writing, editing, and creating visuals, and we’re thrilled to unveil the 25th edition of the Cult Insider for our Cult Wines clients and followers.

When we first started, we couldn’t have imagined the success that this community publication would go on to achieve. Month by month, our readership and following have grown, and your anticipation for each release is what drives us to make it an engaging read. Written personally by Cult Wines staff, it’s become a highlight for us to share with you.

To mark this special milestone, we’ll be raising a glass (or two) and popping a cork in celebration. That customary champagne toast leads us perfectly into this edition’s lead article—a journey through some of the world’s most fascinating celebratory drinking customs.

Cheers to Tradition: Wine & Drinking Customs from Around the World

Written by - Cult Wines team

Champagne Customs

Sabrage in France

Area: Champagne region and globally.
Drink: Champagne

Background: Sabrage, the dramatic act of opening a bottle of champagne with a sabre, dates to the Napoleonic Wars. Victorious cavalry officers celebrated their triumphs by unsheathing their sabres and using them to pop open bottles of champagne, a drink already synonymous with luxury and festivity.

The Process: The bottle is chilled, and the blunt edge of the sabre is slid along the seam towards the cork, dislodging it with a theatrical flourish. This showstopping tradition is now a staple at weddings, grand celebrations, and luxury events.

Champagne Spraying in Monaco

Area: Monaco, Formula 1 Grand Prix podiums.
Drink: Champagne

Background: Champagne spraying became a motorsport tradition in 1967 when an accidental pop on the Le Mans podium drenched the crowd. It’s since become a celebratory act at Monaco’s Grand Prix and other racing victories, symbolising triumph and excitement.

The Process: Winners vigorously shake the champagne bottle before aiming it at the crowd, creating a sparkling spray of victory. Once the display is complete, the podium finishers share a celebratory sip.

Wedding Champagne Towers in China

Area: Nationwide, especially in modern urban weddings.
Drink: Champagne

Background: Introduced through Western influences, champagne towers have become a hallmark of modern Chinese weddings. Symbolising prosperity, unity, and shared abundance, the cascading glasses represent blessings for a harmonious and fruitful marriage.

The Process: The couple pours champagne into the top glass of a carefully constructed pyramid of glasses. The champagne overflows, filling the glasses below in a mesmerising cascade. Guests watch as the tower fills, marking the start of the celebration. The couple often takes their first sip from the tower before inviting their guests to join in the toasts.

Wine Customs

Beaujolais Nouveau Day in France

Area: Beaujolais region and across France.
Drink: Beaujolais Nouveau wine

Background: Celebrated on the third Thursday of November, Beaujolais Nouveau Day marks the release of the first wine of the year’s harvest. The event began as a local tradition but gained international fame in the mid-20th century. The wine’s youthful, fruity profile embodies the joy and excitement of a fresh start.

The Process: Festivals and parties are held in towns and cities, particularly in the Beaujolais region. At midnight, the first bottles are opened with fanfare, and celebrants toast with the wine, often accompanied by music, dancing, and regional dishes like charcuterie and cheese.

Navarra Wine Battle in Spain

Area: Haro, La Rioja
Drink: Red wine

Background: Known as the Batalla del Vino (Battle of the Wine), this tradition dates to the 13th century and takes place during the annual Haro Wine Festival. Originally a religious pilgrimage, the event evolved into a celebratory battle where participants douse each other in red wine to honour the region’s winemaking heritage.

The Process: Dressed in white with red scarves, participants gather with buckets, bottles, and sprays of red wine. The “battle” begins at dawn on a hillside, with wine flying everywhere. After the fight, the soaked revellers return to the town square to enjoy local music, food, and, of course, more wine—this time for drinking!

Wine in Georgian Supras

Area: Georgia, particularly in family feasts.
Drink: Local qvevri wine

Background: Georgian supras (feasts) revolve around wine, which is integral to the country’s 8,000-year winemaking heritage. The tamada (toastmaster) leads the festivities, using wine to honour family, guests, and ancestors.

The Process: Guests raise their glasses to a series of structured toasts led by the tamada. The wine, often made in qvevris (traditional clay vessels), flows freely, fostering a sense of unity and tradition.

Fortified Wine Traditions

The Royal Toast in the United Kingdom

Area: Across the UK, especially in military and academic settings.
Drink: Port wine

Background: The Royal Toast is a longstanding tradition that honours the reigning monarch. Port, a drink with historical ties to British trade and heritage, has become the customary choice for this ritual.

The Process: After dessert, port is poured, and the host or senior guest announces a toast to "The King" (or monarch). All rise, lift their glasses, and echo the toast before sipping. The ritual concludes the formal portion of the evening.

Port and Desserts in Portugal

Area: Porto and Douro Valley
Drink: Port wine

Background: During the festive season and New Year’s, port wine accompanies Portugal’s rich desserts. This custom highlights family bonds and the nation’s pride in its fortified wine heritage.

The Process: Port is served in small glasses alongside desserts like bolo rei. The host offers toasts to health, prosperity, and togetherness.

Oloroso Sherry in Andalusian Weddings

Area: Andalusia, Spain
Drink: Oloroso Sherry

Background: In Andalusia, sherry holds a special place in celebrations, particularly weddings. Oloroso Sherry, known for its rich, nutty flavours, symbolises the depth and strength of the couple’s bond. The drink also reflects Andalusia’s pride in its winemaking heritage.

The Process: Small glasses of Oloroso Sherry are served to guests after the wedding ceremony, usually alongside traditional sweets like polvorones. The couple begins the toast, offering thanks and blessings to their guests, who raise their glasses in celebration of the union.

Wine-Related Drinks

Glühwein at German Festive Markets

Area: Germany Nationwide Festive markets.
Drink: Mulled wine

Background: A medieval solution to preserve wine, Glühwein has become a festive staple, warming both hearts and hands during chilly winter evenings.

The Process: Vendors serve steaming mugs of mulled wine spiced with cinnamon, cloves, and citrus peel. Visitors sip as they browse handcrafted goods and savour seasonal treats.

Sangria in Spanish Celebrations

Area: Spain, especially during summer festivals.
Drink: Sangria

Background: Sangria’s mix of red wine and fresh fruit makes it a refreshing accompaniment to Spain’s lively summer celebrations. It’s a drink that embodies festivity and hospitality.

The Process: Prepared in large jugs, Sangria is shared among friends and family. It’s poured into glasses filled with ice and garnished with citrus slices, creating a vibrant, social atmosphere.

Mead at Pagan Weddings in Northern Europe

Area: Northern Europe, especially Scandinavia and the British Isles
Drink: Mead

Background: Mead, a fermented honey-based drink, has ancient roots in Pagan wedding ceremonies. Known as the "nectar of the gods," it symbolises fertility, prosperity, and the sweetness of married life. The term "honeymoon" is thought to derive from the tradition of drinking mead during the first month of marriage.

The Process: At Pagan-inspired weddings, a ceremonial horn or cup filled with mead is passed around, allowing guests to take a sip and share blessings for the couple. The newlyweds drink deeply, signifying their commitment to one another and to a prosperous union.

Unusual Facts or Anecdotes

Wine and Feasts in Sweden

Area: Sweden, during Midsummer celebrations.
Drink: Wine

Background: Midsummer is one of Sweden’s most cherished holidays, celebrating light, nature, and community. While aquavit is the traditional drink, wine has increasingly become a popular accompaniment to the smörgåsbord feasts.

The Process: During Midsummer, families and friends gather to enjoy a smörgåsbord—a spread of dishes including herring, salmon, and potatoes. Wine is served alongside, complementing the flavours of the meal. The evening is filled with singing, dancing around maypoles, and heartfelt toasts.

Sparkling Wine in French Baptisms

Area: ural France (historically).
Drink: Sparkling wine

Background: In certain rural regions of France, it was once customary to use sparkling wine during baptisms to symbolise purity and the joyous entry of a new life into the community.

The Process: Sparkling wine was poured into ceremonial goblets, which were passed among family members and close friends after the baptism. Toasts were made to the health and future happiness of the child.

Ice Wine in Canadian Harvest Celebrations

Area: Niagara region and other wine-producing areas in Canada.
Drink: Ice wine

Background: Ice wine is a prized Canadian specialty made from grapes harvested after freezing on the vine. This labour-intensive process results in a sweet, concentrated wine often associated with luxury and celebration. Harvest festivals in Canada frequently highlight ice wine, celebrating both the season’s bounty and the skill of local winemakers.

The Process: During harvest festivals, ice wine tastings are a highlight, paired with seasonal foods like spiced nuts or apple-based desserts. Guests often toast to the harvest while learning about the unique production process, enjoying the drink as a symbol of resilience and natural beauty.

Cava Toasts in Catalonia’s Castells

Area: Catalonia, Spain
Drink: Cava (sparkling wine)

Background: In Catalonia, castells (human towers) are a traditional symbol of strength and collaboration. After successfully building a tower, participants celebrate with Cava, the region’s sparkling wine, as a toast to teamwork and achievement.

The Process: Once the castell is successfully constructed and dismantled, participants and spectators gather around with glasses of chilled Cava. The leader offers a toast, and everyone drinks to honour the shared effort, perseverance, and community spirit that the castells represent.

From the structured toasts of Georgia to the cascading bubbles of China’s champagne towers, the way we celebrate with wine is as diverse as the cultures that enjoy it. These customs remind us that a shared toast connects us across borders, bridging time and tradition.

As we raise our glasses to mark two years of the Cult Insider, we thank you, our readers, for being part of our journey. Here’s to shared moments, fascinating stories, and many more milestones. Cheers—and until next time, Santé!

News in brief

Bourgogne Wines Defy Market Challenges with Global Growth

Burgundy wines have achieved notable global success despite difficult market conditions and a low-yield 2024 vintage. The Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) reported export volumes up by 4.6% and record sales exceeding €900 million in early 2024. The US led with a 14.6% increase in value, while China and Korea showed promising growth. Domestically, estate sales rose 1.6% year-on-year. However, the BIVB warned that climate change continues to affect white wine production, creating variability in yields over the past decade.

France to Uproot 27,500 Hectares of Vineyards Amid Wine Surplus

The French government has announced plans to uproot 27,500 hectares of vineyards to address a significant wine oversupply. Grape growers will receive €4,000 per hectare removed, totalling €109.8 million in compensation. This initiative follows a decline in domestic wine consumption, with average annual intake dropping from 120 litres per adult in the 1960s to 40 litres today. The uprooting process must be completed by 2 June 2025, and replanting on the cleared land is prohibited until at least 2029.

Masseto's Strategic Move to La Place de Bordeaux

In 2009, Marchese Lamberto Frescobaldi transitioned Masseto's distribution to La Place de Bordeaux to address supply constraints and better serve clients. This shift allowed Masseto to distance itself from the broader Frescobaldi portfolio, enhance global reach, and significantly increase its market value. The decision set a precedent, leading over 100 international fine wines to adopt the Bordeaux-based distribution system.

Mengyan Zhu, Fine Wine Advisor - Cult Wines - Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Blanc Grand Cru 2015

What we’re drinking

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Blanc Grand Cru 2015

Mengyan Zhu, Fine Wine Advisor - Cult Wines

The 2015 Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Blanc is a wine of historical significance, marking the long-awaited return of this iconic white Burgundy to its original name after more than two decades. In 1993, the vines were completely replanted, and from 1994 onwards, the young Chardonnay grapes were bottled as Bourgogne Blanc. With the vines reaching maturity, this wine has reclaimed its place in the spotlight.

This rare white Burgundy comes from two small plots of Chardonnay—one in the northwest corner of Les Petits Musigny and the other in the southwest part of Les Musigny. Together, they make up just 0.66 hectares of vineyard, a tiny but mighty area producing something remarkable. The unique characteristics of these plots shine through in every bottle, making it a wine worth savouring.

The 2015 vintage is vibrant and full of life, with exotic fruit flavours wrapped in a strong mineral backbone. It’s perfectly balanced on the palate, with soft acidity, a chalky sweetness, and an elegant finish that lingers beautifully. There’s an energy to this wine that makes it both rich and refreshing—a true showcase of what makes Burgundy whites so unique.

For Burgundy enthusiasts, this is more than just a wine; it’s a piece of history. The return of Musigny Blanc is a story of patience and dedication, and this vintage is a stunning reward for the wait. It’s a wine to be celebrated, savoured, and remembered.

Our fine wine feature

How Wine Co-Operatives are Redefining Quality

Written by - Sean Wright, Purchasing Assistant - Cult Wines

Wine co-operatives emerged in the 19th century as a means for small growers to survive in a competitive market increasingly dominated by large estates, forming associations of local growers who produce wines collectively and share in the profits. They could effectively share equipment, facilities, and wine-making knowledge by pooling resources.

Today, thousands of co-operatives operate worldwide, hiring marketing teams, experienced winemakers, distribution experts and many other specialists to produce and sell wine crafted from their grapes. They typically aim to leverage the enhanced economies of scale resulting from many smaller growers uniting to produce wine collectively and enable growers with minimal holdings to produce wines which might otherwise be commercially unviable.

The prevalence of co-operative winemaking today cannot be understated, with French, German, and Italian co-operatives producing an estimated 50% of the countries’ wine output. The diversity of co-ops, too, should not be underestimated, varying in size from local endeavours comprised of small numbers of growers from a given town or village to regional hegemons such as ‘Plaimont’ within south-western France, representing 800 member winegrowers.

How Wine Co-Operatives are Redefining Quality

However, the early reputation of co-operatives was often associated with inconsistent to low quality. For larger Co-operatives, large-scale blending from multiple vineyards arguably resulted in wines that lacked distinctiveness, and despite their pooled resources, smaller co-operatives can still lack the means, expertise and capital to produce higher-quality wines.

It is notable, too, that although restrictions and guidance on vineyard practices will generally exist, growers are ultimately paid for the volume of grapes produced rather than for the quality of grapes for the vast majority of co-operatives. This reputation endured for much of the 20th century, as co-operatives were generally regarded as bulk producers catering to lower-end markets.

In recent years, this narrative has shifted. Co-operatives now frequently embrace lower yields and high-quality production, crafting wines that better showcase their region’s terroir. Perhaps driven by market forces, where European producers of inexpensive wines now struggle to compete with new world regions such as Chile, which have been able to produce bulk wines of comparable or better quality at a lower cost, or from member-growers organically striving to produce wines of higher quality which proudly showcase their region’s unique character.

Innovations in viticulture, more meticulous grape selection, and modern winemaking practices have allowed co-operatives to achieve levels of excellence that were once unimaginable.

This change has occurred alongside a global trend towards premiumisation, with consumers willing to spend more per bottle. Italian co-operatives were ahead of the curve on this trend in regions such as Alto Adige, where 70% of the (often very high-quality) wines produced come from one of 13 co-operatives. Crucially, members of Alto Adige co-operatives such as the renowned ‘Cantina Terlano’ are not paid based on the volume of grapes they produce, meaning they are not incentivised to produce high volumes of grapes at the expense of quality.

The results speak for themselves, with the 2021 vintage of one of the co-operative’s top wines, ‘Terlaner 1 Primo Grande Cuvée,’ earning an impressive critic score of 96+ points from Vinous and commanding prices well over £100 per bottle.

Few producers demonstrate this potential of co-operatives to craft truly exceptional wines better than another famed Italian example, Piedmont’s ‘Produttori del Barbaresco’. Barbaresco’s current renown as an outstanding region for winemaking owes much to the vital contributions of co-operative movements throughout its history. As far back as 1894, Barbaresco castle owner Domizio Cavazza formed ‘Cantine Sociali di Barbaresco’ alongside nine other farmers to produce wine within the castle cellars. Believed to be the first Barbaresco wine to proudly present the town name on the label, this is a pivotal first step in the region's rise to prominence.

This fledgling co-operative winery survived past Cavazza’s death in 1913, though in a sadly typical occurrence, it was forced to close in the 1920s, as Mussolini’s fascist government exerted heavy pressure on co-operative organisations throughout Italy.

Co-operative winemaking in Barbaresco was not lost to history; however, it revived in 1958 when Don Fiorino Marengo, a young parish priest, took inspiration from Cavazza’s lead and founded a new co-operative of 19 farmers: ‘Produttori del Barbaresco’.

Today, ‘Produttori del Barbaresco’ comprises over 50 members who grow exclusively Nebbiolo grapes across 120 hectares. The only single-grape winery in the Langhe, the co-op’s belief that specialisation is key to achieving greatness has undoubtedly borne fruit.

The co-operative produces a flagship Barbaresco DOCG wine yearly, blending grapes from across its members’ vineyards. It also releases nine single-vineyard cru bottlings in exceptional vintages, such as Montestefano and Rabajà, which stand amongst the finest renditions of Nebbiolo produced today. The 2016 renditions of these Riserva bottlings earned twin 98 scores from The Wine-Advocate, with the 2016 Rabajà described as “a gorgeous wine, and one that is offered at an unbelievably low price”.

Indeed, the relative value offered by the co-operatives wine is outstanding, both amongst Barbaresco producers and, not least, compared to ‘older brother’ Barolo.

Whilst these shining examples of co-operative wine producers are undoubtedly unique, the success of ‘Produttori del Barbaresco’ and ‘Cantina Terlano’ illustrates how wine co-operatives can thrive in the premium wine market while staying true to their communal roots.

Other co-operatives, such as ‘La Chablisienne’ in Burgundy and ‘Vinchio Vaglio Serra’ in Piedmont, are similarly pushing boundaries, proving that collective winemaking does not have to sacrifice quality to thrive in the modern wine industry.

Explore & travel

Exploring the Wines of Anjou: A Journey through Terroir & Tradition

Written by - Paul Declerck, Relationship Manager - Cult Wines

The Anjou region in the Loire Valley holds a special place in my heart—not just for its extraordinary wines, but because it’s where I was born and raised. This area has a unique magic, blending historical charm with nature’s quiet beauty. From the rolling vineyards to the majestic châteaux and quaint villages, there’s a feeling here that you’re stepping back in time, while still uncovering vibrant, contemporary viticulture.

So, if you’re planning to explore Anjou’s wines, let me take you on a route that goes beyond the bottle. Here, I’ll share my favourite domaines and a few nearby gems that offer a fuller experience of the Anjou spirit.

After a day of tastings, there’s no better place to relax than Château du Beugnon—a true hidden retreat in Anjou’s wine country.

Domaine Highlights: A Winemaker's Craft

Exploring the Wines of Anjou: A Journey through Terroir & Tradition

Domaine Belargus

Address: 19 Rue Saint-Vincent, 49750 Val-du-Layon, France
Wine Pick: Quarts de Chaume

In the quaint village of Val-Du-Layon, Domaine Belargus specialises in exquisite Chenin Blanc wines, with their Quarts de Chaume being a remarkable example. Produced from Anjou’s only Grand Cru vineyard, this wine boasts a perfect balance of richness and vibrant acidity, with honeyed notes and concentrated flavours that showcase the very best of Loire Valley Chenin Blanc.

Domaine du Closel - Château des Vaults

Address: 1 Place du Mail, 49170 Savennières
Wine Pick: Savennières Clos du Papillon

Set in the heart of the village of Savennières, Domaine du Closel combines heritage with biodynamic principles to craft exceptional wines. Their Savennières Clos du Papillon is a standout, capturing the region’s unique minerality and floral notes. With complex stone fruit flavours and a fine structure, this Chenin Blanc epitomises the elegance of Savennières.

Domaine des Guyons

Address: 35 Rue du Clos des Guyons, 49390 Le Puy-Notre-Dame
Wine Pick: Saumur Blanc L'Ardille

Led by the incredible Frank Bimont, Domaine des Guyons, based in Le Puy-Notre-Dame, is renowned for its fine Saumur wines. Their Saumur Blanc L'Ardille is a beautifully refined Chenin Blanc, displaying subtle citrus and floral aromas with a hint of minerality. This wine perfectly embodies the fresh and vibrant character of Saumur Blanc.

Domaine de l’Été - Château des Rochettes

Address: 104 Les Rochettes, 49700 CONCOURSON SUR LAYON
Domaine de l’Été Château des Rochettes is well-known for its expressive wines that capture the essence of the Anjou terroir. Here, the Anjou Rouge is the star, with a depth of red berry flavours and earthy undertones. This red wine offers a lovely complexity, balancing the natural richness of Cabernet Franc with Anjou’s distinctive minerality.

Domaine de la Montcellière (my cousins!)

Address: La Montcelliere, Trémont, 49310 Lys Haut Layon
Wine Pick: Anjou Blanc

My cousins at Domaine de la Montcellière in Chavagnes-les-Eaux have crafted an Anjou Blanc that has recently garnered several Medaille d'Or awards. This beautifully balanced Chenin Blanc has a peachy nose and a fresh acidity, making it both refreshing and full of character. It’s a delight to see their hard work recognised, and I couldn’t be prouder of them.

Where to Stay: Château du Beugnon

Address: Le Beugnon, 49540 Lys-Haut-Layon
For those looking to stay overnight, Château du Beugnon is a charming choice, conveniently located for exploring Anjou’s wine country. This historic château offers elegant rooms with picturesque views of the surrounding vineyards. Its tranquil setting and classic French decor make it a perfect place to unwind after a day of tastings.

Five Unmissable Stops in Anjou

Château d’Angers
Step into medieval history with a visit to this grand castle overlooking the Maine River. It’s home to the famed Apocalypse Tapestry, a treasure not to be missed.

Château de Brézé (a must-see!)
Beneath this seemingly traditional château lies a troglodyte wonder. Château de Brézé has one of the deepest dry moats in Europe and a maze of underground tunnels. It’s a fascinating blend of history and mystery.

Rochemenier Troglodyte Village
For a unique experience, head to Rochemenier, where entire homes were carved into the rock. This troglodyte village offers a glimpse into life hundreds of years ago and is a testament to Anjou’s creative spirit.

Slate Mines near Angers
Dive into the region’s industrial heritage with a tour of the slate mines. The mines reveal another layer of Anjou's history and provide insight into the labour that once powered this area.

Canoe on the Loire River
Take in the scenic beauty of Anjou from the water. A canoe or boat trip along the Loire River lets you see the vineyards, châteaux, and villages from a new perspective—a fitting close to an Anjou adventure.

Where to Eat: Les Cathédrales de la Saulaie, Doué-en-Anjou

After exploring, head to Les Cathédrales de la Saulaie in Doué-en-Anjou. This restaurant is set in an old quarry, creating a unique ambiance with vaulted ceilings that make you feel like you’re dining in a natural cathedral. It’s a perfect way to end a day in Anjou, with dishes inspired by the local terroir and wines to match.

From Domaine Belargus’ remarkable Quarts de Chaume to the award-winning Anjou Blanc at my cousins’ Domaine de la Montcellière, each stop on this tour offers a unique perspective on Anjou’s winemaking tradition. Exploring these domaines provides not only a taste of exceptional wines but a glimpse into the passion and dedication of the people behind them.

Here’s to discovering Anjou’s finest!