A Champagne Legacy: An Interview with Charles Philipponnat
Interview by Hermione Egerton-Smith, Senior Fine Wine Buyer
In a recent interview with Charles Philipponnat, Chef d'entreprise at Champagne Philipponnat, I had the opportunity to explore more deeply what makes their champagnes so special.
Located in the heart of Montagne de Reims, Philipponnat’s legacy stretches back as far as 1522. As Charles Philipponnat notes, their "long tradition gives them a sense of responsibility and has set [them] on a path of permanent improvement," highlighting that the estate regards the past as being just as important as the future.
This deep-rooted history, spanning over 500 years of Champagne production, has endowed the Philipponnat family with immense knowledge, resulting in undeniably excellent champagnes. When asked about traditions that remain unchanged, Charles emphasises they "are faithful to age-tested methods and make wines the way they could have been made 100 years ago."
A Legacy of Excellence
The house remains in family hands, and since 2000, it has been led by Charles Philipponnat, a direct descendant of the original family. Having been at the helm for many years, I wanted to know what the most rewarding aspect of leading the house has been. He simply said that there was “recognition from wine professionals” across critics, connoisseurs, and competitors. Charles maintained a balance between history and innovation, and it is clear that he is proud of the revival of the house after what was described as a “more difficult pass in the 1990s”.
What Sets Philipponnat Apart
Philipponnat has long been one of my favourite Champagne houses, and the personality of the wines comes directly from its terroir, complemented by exceptional winemaking skills. When asked what sets Philipponnat apart from other producers in Champagne, Charles answered, “We are a maison vigneronne, as our friends in Champagne say; both a renowned, albeit confidential brand, and a quality producer that focuses on specific terroirs.”
While Philipponnat owns and manages around 20 hectares of vineyards, including the famed Clos des Goisses, they also work closely with trusted growers across Champagne to source additional grapes, ensuring quality and consistency across their cuvées. The combination of estate-grown and carefully selected fruit is key to achieving both precision and a clear sense of identity in the wines.
Winemaking Philosophy
Philipponnat’s winemaking is guided by a single focus: quality without compromise and a “fresh, nonoxidative style”.
Their focus is on single crus and individual vineyards to produce exceptional wines, and at the heart of this is Pinot Noir from Aÿ, Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, and the south-facing slopes of the Grande Vallée de la Marne, where the “complexity in the wines is from the fruit only”. Their sites are known for producing ripe, expressive fruit and allowing grapes to reach maturity, and achieving full concentration is of the utmost importance.
With few things changed in their long history, they did realise the importance of introducing temperature control during fermentations, both in barrels and larger vessels, resulting in wines that emphasise purity and structure whilst retaining their signature freshness. This thoughtful combination of tradition and measured innovation runs throughout the house style.
Spotlight on Clos des Goisses
The steep, chalk-rich, south-facing sun-drenched slopes of Clos des Goisses can be argued as being the best in Champagne, producing predominantly Pinot Noir.
The views are breathtaking, and it is one of the largest Clos in the Champagne region. The vineyard overlooks the Marne Canal, and the extent of the slope is clear. They own six hectares in fourteen plots that vary from 35 to 45°.
Unlike most Champagne, which is typically vinified in stainless steel to preserve freshness, Clos des Goisses is vinified mainly in oak barrels without going through malolactic fermentation. It also ages far longer than other champagnes (9–11 years on lees), resulting in richness and depth.
This is a wine that rewards time and reflection, is built to age gracefully and offers something different each year. It is one of those rare bottles that can genuinely be described as profound.
Some recent and exciting innovations at Philipponnat have come through small but thoughtful changes. “We recently adapted ploughing and tilling devices to small caterpillars with more power,” Charles explains. This has made work in the vineyard more efficient, particularly on the steep slopes of Clos des Goisses, while still maintaining their hands-on approach.
It is a simple adjustment, but one that reflects their focus on doing things carefully and well.
An Introduction to Philipponnat
For collectors and wine lovers, the Non-Vintage (NV) cuvée offers the perfect introduction to Philipponnat’s style.
Although Charles said the NV is “the most challenging to make considering its larger volume,” the wines have consistency and elegance.
They have recently been rewarded with top scores in La Revue du Vin de France, which conducted a blind tasting of 60 NV Champagnes. If you are looking to become more familiar with their wines, this is a very good place to start.
Philipponnat Champagnes are made with food in mind. Their freshness and structure make them natural companions at the table, not just something to toast with.
A recommendation from Charles is that the NV’s “freshness and minerality will naturally pair with shellfish and white fish such as turbot, sole or sea bass.”
Looking Ahead
Like many producers, Philipponnat focuses on sustainability, but it has been part of their DNA long before it became a trend.
Although they are not certified biodynamic, they ensure to follow practices to protect the land, as they “abandoned insecticides 35 years ago and stopped any chemical weeding 20 years ago, using mechanical means only – all the way to tilling by hand and ploughing with horses where needed.”
It is impressive to note they were one of the first producers in Champagne to achieve both HVE (Haute Valeur Environnementale) and VDC (Viticulture Durable en Champagne) certification, which are sustainability standards that recognise environmentally responsible viticulture.
Tasting Highlights
Over the years, I’ve had the chance to taste a few Philipponnat’s cuvées, and a few stand out as particularly memorable. These two wines showcase the house’s precision, purity, and impressive ageing potential, in my opinion.
- 2002 Philipponnat Cuvée 1522 Grand Cru Extra Brut Millésimé:
This wine was unbelievably fresh with a spicy, peppery note. The aromas of brioche and apricot paired beautifully with the richness and precise acidity. The finish was long, and the balance was there. Tasted 2022. - 2012 Philipponnat 'Les Cintres' Extra Brut:
100% Pinot Noir from the ‘Les Cintres’ parcel and made only in the very best years. It is elegant and fruit-forward, complemented by hints of honey. It has a vibrant mouthfeel, and the texture is intense and refined. Tasted 2025.
When asked about the future, the response is simple: “More of the same, welcoming growth so long as our qualitative criteria and aims are met,” and with that, it’s clear the future of Philipponnat is in safe hands.
