1999 Puligny Montrachet les Enseigneres
By Domaine Coche-Dury
1999 Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Burgundy, France
As a discerning critic, it's not often that a wine strikes an indelible chord with my sensory memories, but the 1999 Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon has done precisely that. Nestled amongst Burgundy's most exalted vineyards, this particular vintage embodies the complex alchemy of climate and craft.
Vintage Perfection: The Climatic Alchemist's Dream
The closing fin de siècle years showered vignerons with climatic whimsy. The 1999 growing season in Burgundy was one where elements conspired in favour of the grape, as a moderately warm summer elegantly surrendered to an Indian summer at the precise time of véraison. This serendipitous orchestration is redolent in each sip; a balance so often yearned for but seldom achieved.
Flavours Woven with Burgundian Mastery
Upon tasting, the 1999 Meursault Goutte d'Or unveils itself as a majestic cascade of honeyed pears and toasted almonds, interlacing with an ethereal minerality distinctive to the Goutte d'Or terroir. The luxuriance does not belie its structure; rather, it proposes a tautness which adds verve to its ample mouthfeel. A sui generis expression from Domaine des Comtes Lafon, it considers no equal from surrounding appellations indeed.
Suffused with tertiary notes delicately etched by time - think marzipan giving way to mellow oxidative nuances and whispers of vanilla spice – this wine furnishes the avid collector or investor not merely with a bottle but with an experience imbibed in both place and moment.
An Oenophilic Investment Worth Toasting
Embarking on its third decade, the 1999 Meursault Goutte d'Or from Domaine des Comtes Lafon has blossomed into an investment-worthy centrepiece. For those captivated by Burgundy's oenological ballet, this is a repertoire that quintessentially mirrors a chorus of climes and winemaking finesse. Enthusiasts seeking to adorn their collections with a vintage boasting both maturation potential and current drinking pleasure would find astute companionship here – a nectarous testament to an illustrious millésime.
Market price (USD)
$23,070.00
12x75cl
Highest score
90
POP score
1890
Scores and tasting notes
It has been over a decade since I tasted the 1999 Puligny Montrachet Les Enseignières from Coche-Dury. Raphael poured this bottle blind at the domaine -- part of our ritual when completing a run through of his latest vintage. It has an intriguing bouquet of dried honey, cereal and mineral scents that are very intense. The palate is beautifully balanced with touches of passion fruit and melted wax, becoming ever more resinous and phenolic with time in the glass. The waxy texture is very attractive, although it feels just a little muffled on the long finish. I cannot see much reason to continue aging this, but it is drinking perfectly now.
Neal Martin - The Wine Advocate, 30 December 2015